Alluring Keswick Hall Is Just Right Fit for Exploring Historic Charlottesville, Va. by Anna Gawel Similar to Goldilocksís dilemma in the fairytale, some hotels offer ìtoo muchî and overwhelm travelers with amenities and activities, while others offer ìtoo little.î For those who find expansive, ìdo everything known to manî resorts a bit too exhausting, and others who find modest hotel chains too boring for their tastes, thereís a lodging medium: Keswick Hall in Virginia, which is just the right fit for a leisurely tour of the surrounding historic area of Charlottesville. An Orient-Express-owned property, Keswick Hall at Monticello was originally built as a private estate in 1912. Since then, the 600-acre property has remained true to its historical roots while also upgrading to maintain the luxury of the Orient-Express name. It still has the allure of a stately country residence, and with just 48 guestroomsóeach featuring its own distinctive dÈcoróguests feel right at home in a setting that is both intimate and personal, minus the cramped quarters of a bed and breakfast or an inn. The service rounds out the intimate theme of the Keswick experience. Friendly, attentive yet unobtrusive staff give every guest personalized attention and assistance, whether itís the bellhop, sommelier or tennis instructor. In addition to providing comfort and class, Keswick Hall immerses visitors in a different era in American history, when Thomas Jefferson and James Madison ruled the political headlines. The colonial-inspired furniture, antique pieces, rich wood armoires, fireplaces and beautiful terraces create a setting Jefferson himself would be proud of. Outside the scenery is equally impressive. Situated at the foot of the Blue Ridge Mountains, the mansion overlooks lush rolling hills that make up Keswickís 18-hole Arnold Palmer-designed golf course. Adjacent to the property is Keswick Club, one of Americaís oldest country clubs, which can be used by both hotel guests and club members. The club also houses a spa that specializes in a variety of treatments ranging from body wraps to raindrop therapy. I indulged in a massage by Yvonne Waller, a fabulous masseuse who puts the ìdeep tissueî in deep-tissue massages. In addition to the expansive views of the championship golf course, another striking attraction is the 25-meter infinity-edge pool that seems to drop off directly into the foothills below, acting as a visual centerpiece for the property. Here, as the sun reflects off the buildingís warm golden hue, the mansion almost resembles a Tuscan villa, offering an ideal spot for alfresco dining or just basking in some rays. In addition, there are two other smaller pools (an indoor and outdoor pool, each complete with a Jacuzzi) set amid the neatly manicured grounds. Our room, number nine, had its own private terrace with sweeping vistas of both the pool and golf course. In fact, the room is one of the most popular in the resort and once served as the master bedroom in the original estate. Today, Laura Ashley furniture gives number nine a decidedly feminine feel, although a wall map of Paris circa 1827 and other antiques still lend a country squire ìmanliness.î But donít confuse ìcountryî with ìrusticîótowel warmers and other modern amenities ensure travelers the comforts of todayís lifestyle. Likewise, the rest of Keswick Hall strives to maintain this balance between old and new. Since acquiring the property in 1999, Orient-Express has been constantly working to renovate the mansion and make better use of its space. The result is a seamless blend of newly added rooms and other elements, including an upscale restaurant and separate bar area. These restorations, however, havenít come at the expense of the homeís historic charm, although some of this ìcharmîófrom the creaky stairs to the wear and tear evident on some of the older antiquesómay or may not be appealing depending on your perspective. What most will agree on is that Keswick makes for a unique meeting destination, whether itís a small to mid-size business conference or a formal reception. In particular, the mansion offers a stunning backdrop for weddings, with its plush banquet rooms, cozy nooks and picturesque landscapes (great for photo opportunities). In fact, when we checked in, another family before us was inquiring about wedding packages. The resort is flexible and can work with weddings of different sizes, from small affairs to large gatherings that book the entire mansion. So other than getting married, what is there to do at Keswick? Like Goldilocks, guests will find that thereís neither too much nor too little from which to choose. As far as dining options, room service and the Palmer Room in Keswick Club offer tasty, casual fare. For more high-end cuisine, thereís Fossettís, the resortís main restaurant, which was named after Thomas Jeffersonís chief cook at Monticello, Edith Fossett (1787-1854), who specialized in the art of French cooking. Nowadays, chef John Brand takes the helm with his innovative twists on regional dishes, such as his artisan foie gras appetizer, as well as a wide array of seafood and meat entrees he prepares using the freshest ingredients and intriguing flavor combinations. In addition to the food, the floor-to-ceiling windows, crisp white-linen tables and simple modern dÈcor help Fossettís stand apart from the rest of the mansion. Another elegant touch is the bar area, which, like Fossettís, is a recent and welcome addition to Keswick. The sophisticated interior complements an extensive wine selection that incorporates an eclectic mix of locally grown and international wines. Keswickís knowledgeable sommelier, Richard Hewitt, can help both novices and connoisseurs alike, and the resort regularly partners with area wineries to hold special wine-related events. My only complaint was the costs of the drinks. Being a Washington native, Iím accustomed to $11 martinis, but even by high-end hotel standards, some of the drink prices at Keswick seemed a bit exorbitant. Activity-wise, thereís of course the golf course, as well as tennis (three clay and two hard courts are available day and night), hiking, cycling, white water rafting, horseback riding, fishing, tubing and even hot-air ballooning for the truly adventurous. But just as important are the less-strenuous diversions: a quiet stroll around the gardens, a game of snooker or chess, or munching on homemade scones during the daily afternoon tea. The key is that this is a relaxing country retreat with some leisurely activities to keep you occupied, but not enough to fill up every minute of your day. That being said, once youíve had your fill of down time, you can explore the sights and sounds of Charlottesville, Va., while soaking up some history along the way. Downtown Charlottesville, which is only minutes from Keswick, is a quaint potpourri of cobblestone streets, outdoor cafÈs, international restaurants, and offbeat boutiques and bookstores. The area is also renowned for its significant contributions to U.S. history. Thomas Jeffersonís pastoral home, Monticello, is only minutes awayóa must-see for any visitor to Washingtonóas is the University of Virginia, Jeffersonís tribute to ìthe illimitable freedom of the mindî and one of the most architecturally beautiful campuses in the country. In addition, traveling along Route 29 from Washington, D.C., to Keswick Hall, youíre able to check out a number of interesting sights, from James Madisonís Montpelier mansion to the trail of local wineries peppered along the way. Itís a getaway that can be tailored to anyone from nature enthusiasts to history buffs to wine lovers, and Keswick Hall offers the perfect home-away-from-home setting to enjoy some of Virginiaís top landmarks. Anna Gawel is the managing editor of The Washington Diplomat.