Lesser-known designers also showcased their spring collections at fashion week, including Belgian label Verlaine, which began as a family-run company powered by Veerle Goyvaerts, the label’s designer, and Marlies Verhoeven. Goyvaerts is a graduate of the Studio Bercot in Paris and has worked for designers such as Martine Sitbon and Guy Laroche. After spending many years in Los Angeles, New York, London and Paris, Goyvaerts moved back a few years ago to Belgium, where she opened her shop in Antwerp. For her most recent collection, Goyvaerts collaborated with her friend and illustrator Jeffrey Fulvimari, who created a cartoon print for the designs. Fulvimari’s illustrations were displayed alongside Verlaine’s clothes, merging two art forms and creating a parallel between visual art and fashion. Highlights of the Verlaine spring line include silks, cottons, viscose and print, with an emphasis on classic looks given a modern twist. It was all about freedom of movement and fashion that transcends time. Another designer, Loris Diran, gave his first full New York runway presentation—bringing together both men’s and women’s collections. “I was very influenced by the images of Twiggy and Jean Shrimpton photographed by the upstart photographers of ’60s London … and the image of the so-young and rakish Mick Jagger in a super slim suit before he discovered glam rock,” Diran explained. “My collection is not so much an ode to this bygone era as it is a vision of where this esthetic finds its relevance in today’s return to structure.” Diran’s collection was cut from vintage couture fabrics. Because of the exclusive materials, the pieces will be sold as a limited-edition series. Diran is of French-Armenian descent. He immigrated to the United States at an early age, and his family settled on New York’s upper west side. He earned a fine arts degree from New York University and went to work for design houses such as Versace, Claude Montana and Chanel. Last year, Diran worked on his own signature men’s line, which has developed a loyal clientele including celebrities from the music, television and film industries. Since then, Loris Diran Couture has appeared on many red carpets, as well as in the hit film “The Devil Wears Prada.” When it comes to their inspirations, designers admit to having large, good old-fashioned imaginations. Brooklyn designer Alison Kelly, also of “Project Runway” fame, said she imagines a huge Victorian dollhouse as the unlikely basis for her clothing creations. “I’ve always been inspired by Victorian clothing,” said Kelly, 26. “I imagine Victorian dolls coming to life at night and what they would be wearing.” Kelly said her spring collection is very romantic, including keyhole fronts in blouses, Victorian beading, lace, crocheted tops and hearts with pins throughout. Her muse also happens to be French icon Brigitte Bardot, so the hair and makeup for her collection was also inspired by the 1960s. As far as the accessories for spring 2007 are concerned, designers didn’t hold back on shapes, colors or textures, as evidenced by the dozens of accessories collections displayed during Olympus Fashion Week. Lisa Bradkin, accessories director for Fashion Week, said spring will take two directions: bold colors and natural shades. She recommended keeping an eye out for Southwestern shades (tan, clay and orange), water tones (pale green, blue and silver), as well as dark tones with gold. Materials for purses and shoes in particular will be reminiscent of the classics: leather, crinkled canvas and raffia. Spring jewelry lines, meanwhile, include strong silvers and golds, carved coconut and horn, and details such as hand beading and eyelet embroidery. Christine Cubé is a freelance writer in Alexandria, Va.

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