Nearby Inn at Perry Cabin Offers Perfect Seaside Escape by Anna Gawel Sometimes, all thatís needed after a long workweek is a quick escape from the turmoil of Washington, D.C. Fortunately, Washingtonians need not look far to find a jewel of a weekend getaway located almost in their backyard. The Inn at Perry Cabin has consistently garnered international acclaim as one of the worldís top resort hideaways, yet it is all within a convenient one-and-a-half-hour drive from Washington. Located along the Chesapeake Bay in the town of St. Michaels, Md., the Inn at Perry Cabin is actually a sprawling 19th-century colonial mansion set amid 25 acres of grounds that offer spectacular views of the adjacent Miles River, a tributary of the bay. The inn was originally built by Purser Samuel Hambleton, a Navy veteran of the War of 1812 who named the inn in honor of his boss, Commodore Oliver Hazard Perry. In fact, the original design for the building was inspired by the commodoreís cabin aboard the U.S.S. Niagara, hence the name ìPerry Cabin.î In the nearly 200 years since its inception, the inn has undergone several transformations, serving as a private home, working farm, riding academy, family-run country inn and upscale hotel es tablishment. The latter really came into being in 1989 when entrepreneur Bernard Ashley, husband of famed designer Laura Ashley, upgraded the property into a luxurious 41-room hotel. Then in 1999, the prestigious Orient-Express Hotels took over the inn, embarking on a $20 million renovation in 2002 that increased the total room count to 80 and solidified the innís reputation as a world-class destination. This marriage of different ownerships and storied past has resulted in a distinctive ambience that melds the refined sophistication of the Orient-Express name while preserving the innís historical charm. Furnishings by Laura Ashley still grace much of the original wing, although Orient-Express has updated the property with its own signature style, designing much of the extension in a motif that plays on the innís nautical appeal. This nautical approach is evident in everything from the sailboat diagrams and photographs lining the walls to the quirky lamps that resemble corks on the bedside tables. My room, like many in the extended wing of the inn, had the feel of an old, elegant yacht. Dark mahogany furnishings and large beams were offset by ivory curtains, crisp white linens and floor-to-ceiling windows that overlooked the water outside, all of which was anchored by a sumptuous bed. As eye-catching as the rooms are, Orient-Express did not go overboard with the nautically themed accessories, keeping the dÈcor clean, simple and striking. Subtle details such as hand-sewn ìdo not disturbî signs and ìportalî mirrors hanging over the fireplaces give each room its own personality, and with all of the rooms and suites individually decorated in period furniture and an array of antiques, visitors are sure to find something unique no matter where they stay. Most important, Orient-Express has balanced the desire to preserve the traditional with the needs of the modern-day traveler. My room for instance featured a television that emerged from inside a rustic chest at the touch of a buttonóa trademark of Orient-Express properties and an inventive way of using technology to, in a sense, hide technology. Similarly, the spacious bathroom included a shower area as well as an old-fashioned cast-iron tubóonce again, fusing the old with the new. My only complaint was that a pair of slippers was not provided to walk on the beautiful, yet cold, Italian marble tile floor. Throughout the rest of the property, Orient-Express has maintained the cozy allure of an inn while pampering guests with the opulent surroundings for which the company is renowned. Bibliophiles are sure to be drawn to the well-appointed library area, where a 1937 edition of John Steinbeckís ìOf Mice and Menî and a number of other titles, many collected by antique booksellers, are available for loan. There are also five stately meeting spaces that can serve a variety of functions from wedding parties to business conferences, including the 1,536-square-foot Commodore Room, which features a large stone hearth and fireplace, the high-tech 836-square-foot Admiral Room, and the more intimate Miles Wine Room, along with the Niagara and Lawrence rooms. No matter where you turn, guests will discover an easy-going grandeur that fits the bill whether youíre looking for a romantic retreat, a respite from the stresses of city life or a unique meeting space. But regardless of the function, this is after all a seaside resort and as such, the real emphasis here is on the water. The entire structure has been built with that concept in mind, winding its way parallel to the Miles River to give each room its own stunning view of the water. And no matter what level your room is on, guests always have a deck, patio, veranda or sunroom at their disposal. Head outside and you can relax on one of the many Adirondack chairs peppered throughout the well-manicured lawn, creating a picturesque scene reminiscent of a Norman Rockwell portrait. Sip on some wine, pull out a book, or simply watch the boats and canoes float by. In this peaceful setting, the only sounds youíll hear are the soft lapping of the water, crickets chirping from the nearby marshes, some chatty seagulls flying overhead and perhaps your neighbor turning the page of his newspaper. Although these surroundings are certainly ideal for the summertime, when temperatures average only in the 70s, donít discount a visit in the fall and winter months, when the fireplaces are lit, the autumn leaves are ablaze with color and the summer crowds have thinned to give the inn an added air of tranquility. Year-round, guests can take advantage of some of the other diversions at the inn, including a fully equipped fitness center and a heated outdoor 94,000-gallon swimming pool secluded inside a lush, brick-walled garden. In addition, a spa is scheduled to open late next year to round off the rejuvenation. And to provide visitors with the ultimate in comfort, the inn offers babysitting services, a complimentary selection of Academy Award-winning films, and access for guests arriving by plane, car or boat. (Easton Municipal Airport is 15 minutes away, and the inn has its own private dock.) This month, the Inn at Perry Cabin is featuring a package centered on the Waterfowl Festival, which takes place Nov. 12 to 14. Special packages geared toward newlyweds, busy parents and sailing enthusiastsócomplete with lessons from a master boat builderóare also available. The list of activities that the inn offers, however, is not exhaustiveónor is it meant to be. The point here is to slow down and enjoy this quintessential seaside getaway. In fact, celebrities and dignitaries ranging from Nicholas Cage and Elizabeth Taylor to Margaret Thatcher and Paul Newman have all retreated to this serene landscape. When you are ready to venture out, you can take one of the innís complimentary bicycles to leisurely explore the town of St. Michaels, where the main street is lined with restored Victorian homes, quaint restaurants and antique shops. The only thing you wonít find here is any vestige of city lifeóthere isnít even a single traffic light for 11 miles. After a strenuous day on the town, an award-winning restaurant awaits your return to the inn. Sherwoodís Landing, headed by chef Mark Salter, is the only four-diamond, four-star restaurant in Maryland. The lighthouse replica that takes center stage in the restaurant sets the tone for the rest of the dÈcoróa contemporary blend of nautical touches and romantic vistas of the waterfront outside. The impressive dÈcor complements a menu that highlights the fresh bounty of the Chesapeake Bay. Salterís signature dish is a tender crab spring roll starter with pink grapefruit, avocado and toasted almondsóa specialty so popular in fact that Salter creates more than 7,000 servings in an average year. The chefís deft handling of seafood carried over to the main courses and was particularly evident in the wild rockfish entrÈe that I sampled, which was topped with a savory Jack Daniels-corn reduction and accompanied by corn pudding. The meal was served by a wait staff that was gracious and attentive, yet at the same time friendly and unpretentious. And the desserts by executive pastry chef Anthony Orazi are not to be missedóespecially the soufflÈ, which changes daily. The chocolate version infused with grand mariner was a luscious treat that was one of the best Iíve ever tasted. After dinner, try your hand at a game of chess or backgammon in the Purserís Pub, where you can sample cocktails such as the Bloody Bay Bloody Mary in a classic club-lounge atmosphere. And to cap off the experience, be sure to catch at least one sunset during your stay. As the pink haze shimmers off the water and reflects onto the white exterior of the inn, youíll feel the quick pace of Washington, D.C., melt awayóat least, that is, until your next visit to this idyllic seaside paradise. Anna Gawel is the managing editor of The Washington Diplomat.