Return to Eden Eve Offers Unexpected Joys With Updated American Cuisine by Rachel Hunt and Stephen Qualiana The best and worse restaurants are often judged that way, not so much because of the quality of the food, service or dÈcor, but because of our expectations. The expectations usually come from a review, a trusted friend or "the buzz," which is basically a combination of the word on the street and hype. We have found that the worst restaurants are often the ones with the buzz circling around them. They are almost always disappointing in one way or another. The expectations are high and the qualities are, well, exaggerated. After taking the first bite at one of these restaurants, you realize this is not the ambrosia you were told it was, and you go home disappointed. On the other hand, thereís nothing better than going to restaurant you know nothing or little about and then being bowled over by each dish, by the crisp service and the warm, comfortable surroundings. That was our experience with Eve in Alexandria, Va. Its low-key stature actually emphasized its superb qualities and attention to detail. We liked that it was easy to find a parking spot a half a block from the restaurant on a narrow street on the fringe of Old Town Alexandria. The somewhat hidden entrance to Restaurant Eve made it seem as if the place was almost a secret, if it werenít for the stream of people moving in the long tight European-style corridor that ends in a courtyard. The dining area is unpretentious but meticulous. Once an industrial warehouse, the dining room is divided into a tasting room and a bistro area, and you are seated according to which menu you order from. We chose the bistro. Mirrors and large painting of flowers and plants were on the walls. Lighting was subtle and created by small electric lights and candles. The recessed ceiling had plenty of large skylights. Chef-owner Cathal Armstrong, a native of Ireland, has designed a menu that focuses on freshness, quality and detail. Most of the dishes are contemporary American fare with some French and even Irish influences. The rillettes of pork ($9.50), similar to a very soft p?tÈ, was served on an oversize white plate with mustard and miniature pickles. The corn bisque ($7.25) served with corn fritters can best be described as "sinful" because to be that rich surely means lots of butterfat, but it was the best corn bisque we have ever tried. The menu mentioned that it used "Eastern Shore corn" for that sweet, deep flavor we were spoiled with. While waiting for our next course the waiter brought us a complimentary game bird terrine ($10.50) interspersed with small chunks of brioche, whose delicate flavors and texture worked well with the poached dried apricot, which was similar to a preserve. The entrees, like the appetizers, were beautifully but simply served, and the portions were generous. The braised lamb shanks ($21.50) was served on a very wide rectangular plate with a diamond shaped bowl in the middle where the two lamb shanks were carefully placed. Although we were a bit reluctant about the lamb shanks at firstómainly because of the grease factoróthey turned out to be a real surprise and we were glad we took the risk. They were fall-off-the-bone tender and strongly flavored without being gamey, with plenty of au jus and cooked with whole garlic cloves, baby turnips and tomato pieces. The red snapper ($27) was equally impressive. The whole fish was filleted and roasted in a light batter and an engaging garlic, basil and chili sauce. We had to take some care and reservation when eating the flaky white meat because an occasional bone would come with it. The crispy exterior with a fruit compote and sauce was remarkable. The haystack of string fennel fries added some crunch to the dish as well as visual appeal. The desserts had a glorious whimsicality to them. The chocolate DJ ($7.50) was heavier and denser than a standard mouse but lighter than fudge, and was served in the shape of mahogany-colored hockey puck. It interlaced potent chocolate and orange flavors, and then complicated them with a raspberry coulis. The other dessert selection consisted of egg-shaped scoops of homemade ice cream and sorbets ($7.50) with thin wafers inserted lengthwise into them. If there was a weak link to this exceptional evening, it was that our main waiter was not fully educated enough to give us more helpful suggestions. But of course this comes at the border of nit-picking and perhaps he was new and not up to speed on the entire menu. Other than that, the wait staff was professional, friendly, unobtrusive and engaging when necessary. We liked the semi-formal but cool black trousers, cranberry shirts and black ties that the wait staff all wore. We would tell everyone about Eve but we donít want to raise the kind of hype to over-elevate anyoneís expectations. So just try it. Restaurant Eve is located at 110 S. Pitt St., Alexandria, Va. The phone number is (703) 706-0450. The bistro is open for lunch from Monday to Saturday from 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. Dinner is served from 5:30 to 10 p.m. The tasting room serves lunch from Tuesday to Saturday from 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m., and dinner is served from 6 to 9:30 p.m. Dress is mainly urban casual. Rachel Hunt and Stephen Qualiana are the restaurant reviewers for The Washington Diplomat.