Going Downtown Restaurant Kolumbia Offering Eclectic Mix of International Cuisine by Rachel Hunt and Stephen Qualiana Since opening Restaurant Kolumbia early last fall on K Street in downtown, chef Jamie Stachowski has continued to build his already substantial reputation for creative international cuisine. Stachowski and his wife, Carolyn, are slowly transforming what was the site of Le Tarbouche. The interior remains much the same. The fez hats that once graced the walls are gone, but the lovely blue glow of the recessed lighting in the ceiling that looks like the desert night sky remains. The couple had plans to renovate the restaurant but will keep the long bar, running three-quarters of the length of the space that has been a popular spot for happy hour. One hopes that the first thing to go in the renovation will be the quite uncomfortable booth seats. The transformation of the menu has begun more quickly than the change in the space. Although the lunch menu continues to offer a range of more traditional meza (including the delicious maíanek ($9)ótiny lamb sausages served with olives that sadly are no longer on the dinner menu), the menu overall evidences Stachowskiís early training in the techniq ues of traditional French cuisine, as well as his affinity for creating complex dishes by borrowing ingredients and approaches from across cuisines. His appetizer list alone reads like a trip to the Worldís Fair. Stachowski paired the French classic boudin noir, a delicately spiced, very finely textured blood sausage ($10), with a rich semolina almond polenta. Looking further north for its inspiration, the gravlax and sardine terraine ($12) was salty but satisfying. It was served with a salad ruse-like cold potato and corn-based salad dressed with a mild horseradish poppy seed crËme that effectively balanced the saltiness of the fish. For something more south of the border try the lobster, avocado and papaya salad ($14). It was served with a crispy brandade ravioli and a mango mignonette that introduced salty and tart dimensions that countered the richness of the other three ingredients. The tuna tartar tower was unusual ($12). Unlike the increasingly common Asian-inspired version, this one incorporated chopped cucumber and capers into the tartare, which was topped with a guacamole-like avocado salad, beet slices and dressed with a delicate orange essence. Seafood plays a key role in Stachowskiís repertoire, and he handles it deftly. The sesame salmon ($26) is a particularly delicious example of his ability to combine unusual, and sometimes seemingly discordant ingredients, to create compositions that marry taste, texture and visual appeal into happy unions. A thick filet of sesame-crusted salmon was layered with two varieties of cabbage, shitake mushrooms, cashews and a lemon grass ginger crËme. Although some of the ingredients hint at an Asian inspiration for the dish, the flavored crËme suggested a more continental influence. Another surprising dish was the diver scallops ($27). Thick, meaty scallops were seared lightly and served on a delicate veal cheek ravioli dressed with a buttery puree of English peas and dill. Milder and less complex than the salmon, it was equally satisfying. Stachowskiís non-seafood dishes are equally creative. The roasted chicken Maria ($24) suggested traditional stuffed roast chicken, but the thick slices of chicken stuffed with slightly bitter beet greens, a mild gorgonzola and chopped hazelnuts, all rounded out with a delicate marsala broth, would please even the most jaded palate. In a nod to the Middle Eastern emphasis of the old menu, Stachowski offers lambs chops ($32) accompanied by grape leaves and moussaka. The thick horseradish-crusted chops are perfectly prepared, and the moussaka, although perhaps a bit rich for the lamb, proved that chef Stachowski is just as comfortable at this end of the continent. Several sides were available to complement the main courses, and best among them was the spinach Romano ($5). Tender baby spinach, butter, grated cheese and a little onionóall quick sautÈed to just past wiltingóis a hard combination to beat. Stachowski has limited dessert choices to a few well-done offerings. The rice pudding brulee ($7) flavored with rosewater marries dessert staples of two cuisines. Not too heavy, it made a nice endnote for the lamb chops. Most of the desserts at Kolumbia donít range quite so far afield for their inspiration, but were inspired nonetheless. The pyramid of hazelnut chocolate ($7) was simply exquisite. Two large triangles of chocolate hazelnut mousse resting on a thin, crunchy crust were served with a house-made hazelnut ice cream that brought out the hazelnut character of the mouse. The fruit composition varies with the season. On a recent visit it was a heavenly peach tart ($7). Coming off his stint at eCitie in Tysons Corner, Va., (which in 2001 under his direction earned Best New Restaurant by a local restaurant association) and two tours as guest chef at the James Beard House, Stachowski was well prepared to take on the challenge of creating a downtown restaurant that can appeal equally to a business lunch crowd, the happy-hour set, and serious evening diners. Restaurant Kolumbia is located at 1801 K St., NW. The phone number is (202) 331-5551. The kitchen is open Monday to Friday from 11:30 a.m. to 10:30 p.m. and Saturday from 5:30 to 11 p.m. Dress is mostly urban casual. Rachel Hunt and Stephen Qualiana are the restaurant reviewers for The Washington Diplomat.