April 2004












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Washingtonís Classic Hotels Still Put on the Ritz for Visitors
by Anna Gawel

Over the years, the nationís capital has been flooded with a sea of newer and trendier hotels that can certainly be credited with spicing up the Washington hospitality market, but amid all the change, one thing has remained constant: The classics never go out of style.

The tried-and-true favorites have endured and even prospered by maintaining their timeless appeal and impeccable service standards. It would be difficult to imagine the Washington landscape without these hotel heavy-hitters, so The Washington Diplomat took a look at a trio of notable properties that have built their reputation on offering the cityís elite the traditional elegance they have come to expect from a power center such as Washington.

The Hay-Adams, Madison and Jefferson hotels have each successfully approached the art of fine hospitality in a manner that befits the prominent Washingtonians for which they are named.

Having It All at the Hay
Since the 1920s, the Hay-Adams has stood as a testament to refined luxury. A member of the Leading Hotels of the World, this intimate 145-room property was originally designed as a resid ential hotel and still has the look and feel of a prestigious private residence.

The hotelís political roots are entrenched in everything from its Off the Record Baródubbed as ìthe place to be seen and not heardîóto the hotelís namesake, which is actually a combination of two earlier residents: John Hay, a private assistant to President Lincoln and later a secretary of state, and Henry Adams, an acclaimed author and descendant of John Adams and John Quincy Adams.

But nowhere is the hotelís connection to Washington politics more evident than in its location. Although many hotels boast of being within close walking distance to the White House, the Hay-Adams is one of the few properties where you actually have a birdís-eye view of President Bushís backyard. Located on H and 16th streets directly overlooking Lafayette Square, the Hay-Adams offers spectacular vistas of both the White House and St. Johnís Churchóotherwise known as the ìChurch of the Presidentsîófrom many of its guest rooms, including its 20 suites. For even more dramatic views, the hotelís rooftop terrace can be used for receptions of up to 225 people.

This presidential neighbor also recently had a facelift. In 2002, the Hay-Adams underwent a four-month, $18 million restoration that added modern touches such as complimentary high-speed Internet connections to its guest rooms.

Despite the upgrades, the historic hotel was careful to preserve the traditional opulence for which it is renowned. The spacious guest rooms are decorated in soft, neutral hues to complement the intricately carved plaster ceilings, marble bathrooms, fireplaces and other regal furnishings. A beautiful headboard over the bed features an Asian-themed design on the fabric that can be seen throughout the room and makes for a subtle but intriguing dÈcor motif, while striking photographs on the walls highlight the architectural beauty of Washingtonís monuments.

Nice extras that the hotel provides include a handy umbrella in the rooms, automated closet lighting, cell phones for rent, and goose-down duvet and pillows that guarantee a dreamy nightís sleep.

Before you head in for the night though, be sure to venture to the hotelís famed Off the Record Bar and the Lafayette Room restaurant. The below-street-level bar is draped in a dramatic color scheme of deep reds accented by oversize booths, making it a favorite after-work spot for the cityís political and business power brokers.

Upstairs, next to the hotelís stately lobby, the Lafayette Room offers guests a dining experience that is nothing short of exceptional. The restaurant envelopes guests in serenity with white-linen tables, soft piano playing and an attentive but never intrusive service staff, providing an ideal setting to enjoy the restaurantís cuisine.

In addition to the savory meat and poultry options, I would highly recommend any seafood dish that the Lafayette Roomís seasonal menu is offering. On the day of our visit, we sampled the lobster consommÈ (soup of the day) as well as the lobster and pumpkin soupóboth simple but wonderfully flavorful appetizers. A more intriguing starter was the crab charlotte, which was topped with diced mango and ginger with a pomegranate reduction on the side that enhanced the delicate crab meat, giving it a surprisingly tangy taste.

The Lafayette Room is also one of the few remaining upscale restaurants in Washington where waiters make the final preparations for many of the entrees directly at the table, a tradition that is sorely lacking in todayís fast-paced restaurant world and one that ensures a high-quality meal made exactly to the patronís liking.

Our skilled waiter prepared a sautÈed Dover sole filet accented with a light lemon butter sauce and a medley of spring vegetables as well as a roasted Colorado rack of lamb with Dijon mustard and herbsóeach perfectly cooked to bring out the inherent flavor of the meat and fish. For dessert, the Grand Marnier-infused soufflÈ is a sublime choice, but remember to pre-order the soufflÈ well ahead of the Lafayette Roomís other delicious treats.

A Reborn Madison
In September 2003, the five-star Madison Hotel unveiled its new look after a 10-month, $40 million renovation that could more aptly be described as a transformation than a renovation. The 40-year-old hotel has hosted every president since John F. Kennedy, but the Washington staple decided that it needed to remake itself both to keep up with the times and to continue to offer guests the kind of service they have come to expect from this Leading Hotel of the World.

On that note, the Madison redesigned its palatial interior spaces in a mix of Federal, American Empire and Georgian styles, creating a more open, inviting atmosphere. One of the main goals of the dÈcor change was to shed the hotelís museum-like reputation and make it more accessible to guests. And although the Madison has retained much of its classical grandeurówhich can be seen in everything from the elaborate crown molding to the antique grandfather clocks to the more than 100 pieces of artwork that adorn the wallsóthe Madison also now projects a much more airy and welcoming feel.

But this is still the place for Washingtonís high-powered clientele. In fact, on the day of our visit, we were ushered along by secret service to make way for an international delegation from the Republic of Chad. The Madison also recently hosted a lavish international reception in honor of its grand opening that was attended by various embassy and other government officials. The hotel-wide party featured cuisine and cultural offerings from around the world, including a Moroccan henna station and exotic belly dancers, one of whom balanced a chandelier on her head while performing.

The hotel has an abundance of space to host such gatherings. In addition to its more than 11,000 square feet of state-of-the-art meeting space, the hotel features 42 spacious suites, including the presidential suite, which offers crucial amenities such as bullet-proof windows for its high-profile dignitaries.

Even if youíre not staying in the ¸ber-luxurious presidential suite, donít fretóthe Madison has taken great care to ensure that all of its guests enjoy first-class surroundings in each of the hotelís tastefully appointed 353 rooms.

The cushy suite that we stayed in was bathed in yellow, taupe, gold and other warm colors accented by rich mahogany furnishings that struck just the right blend between traditional and contemporary styles.

Some interesting added touches include heated towel racks, digital climate controls that adjust room temperature in a matter of seconds, Nintendo video game systems, CD players complete with a CD rental service at the front desk (in case you forgot to bring your own), sumptuous 300-count Egyptian cotton sheets with 400-count Frette duvet covers, turndown service with three slipper sizes andóa rarity at most hotels todayópull-out murphy beds in the suite living rooms for any extra visitors. The hotel also features fully equipped 24-hour business and fitness centers at your disposal.

Youíd be hard-pressed to make a request that the Madison could not fulfill, a philosophy that was inspired by James Madisonís wife, Dolley, an influential trendsetter of her time and one of the first White House social butterflies. The former first ladyís presence is felt in both the PostScript Barónamed for the presidential manuscripts on the walls and a reference to the Washington Post, whose headquarters are next door to the hotelóand in the posh Federalist dining room, which is filled with Dolley memorabilia, including her White House china patterns imprinted on the rug and her portrait adornin g each plate.

The PostScript Bar, with its dark leather chairs reminiscent of an old English pub, stands in stark contrast to the more formal ambience of the Federalist, a lavish, chandelier-lined room highlighted by a 30-foot mural depicting Washington circa James Madisonís presidency. The Federalist also features two smaller dining roomsóthe Hawk and Doveóa sort of bipartisan effort to reach out to diners across the political spectrum.

The Federalist menu specializes in only the freshest farm and fish bounty from the tri-state region. The scampi accompanied with yellow and red tomato slices was a delectable and inventive starter, while Caesar fans wonít be disappointed with the traditional but lively Caesar salad, which includes a healthy helping of white anchovies. Another excellent salad choice is Dolleyís roma tomato and mesclun green salad tossed in a 50-year-old Balsamic dressing.

For the main course, we focused on the plentiful meat selections. Although I generally prefer seafood, I decided to be daring and try the veal chopóand was pleasantly surprised. The perfectly seasoned meat was tender and juicy and topped with a phenomenal mushroom sauce accompanied by asparagus spears and potato dumplingsóa fun twist on the usual mashed potato side.

We capped off the meal with a chocolate hazelnut tortóa recommendation that was right on the markóand a creamy chocolate-raspberry mousse. Our server deftly guided us throughout the meal with all the formal expertise of a fine dining waiter but also with the warmth and humor of an old friendóa compliment that could be extended to the entire Madison staff.

Heading out of the Federalist and down the expansive lobby guests will find the Madisonís newly opened restaurant, Palette, a sleek, edgier counterpart to the Federalist geared toward young urbanites and those looking to dine at an independent restaurant rather than the hotel dining room. The stylish addition, which looks like it could have been plucked from any ìSex and the Cityî episode, proves that the venerable Madison knows how to showcase its past while keeping up with the present.

Jeffersonian Appeal
A block away from the Madison stands Thomas Jeffersonís namesake hotel. The Jefferson, a Loews-owned property, is a relative newcomer on the hotel scene, having opened in 1986.

Nevertheless, this Beaux-Arts-inspired hotel, which dates back to 1923 when it served as a private residence, exudes a definite Old-World charm that would make Jefferson himself feel right at home. Colonial American artworkómuch of it identical to what is found in the White Houseóoriginal documents signed by Jefferson, political caricatures and period furniture capture a bygone era of grace and sophistication. This attention to 18th-century details while maintaining 21st-century comforts has earned the hotel a listing on the National Register of Historic Hotels.

The Jefferson also incorporates unique elements that help the hotel stand apart from the crowd. The lobby, for example, features a lovely fireside sitting area, a multilingual Clef DíOr concierge available 24 hours a day, and two small patio areas cut into either side of the lobby that offer guests a quiet retreat complete with the soothing sound of water flowing from the Jefferson fountains.

The 100 rooms and 33 suites are intimate and homey, with muted browns and beiges punctuated by flower oil paintings, lush plants, canopy beds and other antique furnishings that give the dÈcor a distinct flair and offer guests the kind of comfort one would almost expect at an inn or bed and breakfast. And if you want to savor that comfort just a bit longer in the morning, the Jefferson offers a later-than-usual checkout time of 1 p.m.

Downstairs, the Jefferson lounge is a must-see. With its stunning burgundy-colored dÈcor and plush leather chairs, it might be difficult to pry yourself away from your scotch or bourbon, but to miss out on a meal at the Jefferson restaurant would be a mistake.

The restaurant itself is relatively small, with only about a dozen tables, allowing for superb personalized attention. Portraits of famous Native American chiefs and booths made of burnished leather wrap around secluded alcoves, sheltering diners from the busy world outside.

Our knowledgeable server ensured that every ingredient was to our liking for a meticulously put-together meal. For starters, the roasted bell pepper and tomato soup with Serrano ham had just the amount of bite to whet the appetite, while the watercress and radicchio salad fused a variety of ingredientsóblood oranges, roasted walnuts, port wine vinaigretteówith delicious results.

One of the Jeffersonís signature appetizers is the jumbo lump crab cake, a dish that earned its bragging rights. A light grain mustard sauce served to emphasize the succulent crab meat, which was complemented by a scallion and potato hashóan unexpected but wise choice.

For the main course, the sautÈed arctic char was a knockout on every level. The char was paired with a wild mushroom ragout, herb gnocchi, and leek and truffle vinaigrette for a subtle but scrumptious combination of tastes that made this one of the most satisfying entrees Iíve ever sampled. The roasted lamb loin also earned high marks, with the robust flavor of the meat playing off the saffron couscous and roasted tomato sides.

If you like bananas or chocolate or both, there is no better choice than the Jeffersonís bread pudding dessert laced with a rich chocolate sauce, an old-fashioned classic that, like the hotel itself, would make Jefferson proud.

Anna Gawel is the managing editor of The Washington Diplomat.

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