Eating In Washingtonís Hotel Restaurants Becoming Culinary Destinations by Anna Gawel In addition to full-service spas and gyms, stylishly decorated and well-equipped rooms, and amenities designed to pamper and primp, restaurants have become an important magnet for attracting guests to hotels, and Washington, D.C., hotel restaurants do not disappoint with their culinary creations. Many of the cityís top-tier restaurants are situated inside hotels, such as the Willard, Latham Inn and Hotel George, attracting critical acclaim as dining destinations unto themselves and not mere extensions of the hotels in which they are housed. The Washington Diplomat took a look at three of these standouts, each of which approach their craft in a slightly different but no less exceptional way. Park Hyatt Perfection The four-star Melrose inside the Park Hyatt Washington, located on 24th and M streets, is a study in how hotel dining should be, with the food, service and ambience all working seamlessly together to provide an impeccable restaurant experience. Although much has been written about the Melroseóparticularly of chef Brian McBrideís famed crab cakesóI still canít help f eeling that this is one of Washingtonís undiscovered treasures. The Melroseís setting is refined yet warm and inviting, a difficult balancing act that many upscale restaurants have yet to master. A wide swath of tables wraps around the piano lounge area and a separate enclosed bar in the center of the restaurant. This unique space allows for a large number of tables to be spread throughout the room while maintaining an intimate, secluded atmosphere. Overhanging ivy plants and expansive 20-foot windows encircle the restaurant and overlook the lush cafÈ outsideóone of Washingtonís most popular lunchtime spotsóas well as the hotelís scenic fountain, all of which brings an element of the outdoors to the interior. The simple white linen tables and taupe leather chairs are surrounded by beige and peach marble accents and contemporary touches such as spiraling, branch-like floral arrangements, striking just the right balance of elegance and comfort that pleases but never overwhelms the eye. In addition to the well-executed dÈcor, the service doesnít miss a beat. Our server, Nancy, was extremely amiable and knowledgeable, recommending an excellent bottle of French chardonnay, the Premier Cru ìLes Folatieresî Bzikot Pere et Fils. She knew precisely when to chat and when to let us be, and the rest of the service staff proved to be an equally attentive but never intrusive presence. Last but certainly not least, chef McBrideís innovative American cuisine lived up to its reputation, with every aspect of the presentation and ingredient selection carefully put together for a memorable meal. For starters, the shrimp ravioli with cracked black pepper, sweet corn and lemon grass was a superb choice. The dish consisted of several stuffed ravioli and cooked shrimp over a bed of light cream sauce that enhanced the freshness of the shrimp. Another savory appetizer was the tuna tartare with wasabi tobikko roe, quail egg and a sesame seaweed salad that formed a potent mingling of tastes and textures. If youíve never tasted McBrideís crab cakes, it is a required Washington experience. This signature dish succeeds on every level: The tender morsels of crab flaked just the way theyíre supposed to, and neither the crab cakes nor the accompanying remoulade were too heavy, bringing out the inherent flavor of the crab meat without overpowering it. And the asparagus, grilled just right to lock in its delicate crunch, as well as the plum tomatoes and zucchini acted as a subtle complement to the crab cakes. McBrideís menu focused primarily on seafood specialties, such as Atlantic salmon with wasabi potato puree and poached Alaskan halibut with an oven-dried tomato fondue, but meat lovers have not been left out in the cold, with such varied offerings as loin of rabbit and molasses- and ginger-marinated muscovy duck breast. The meat entrÈe we sampled was the rack of Colorado lamb with whipped potatoes and spinach. The lamb was sublimely seasoned with a mustard, garlic and rosemary crust that gave the meat a robust flavor, which was further enjoyed with the simple but hearty sides. In keeping with the theme of the restaurant, the entrees are sure to please but never overwhelm the palette, leaving plenty of room for the Melroseís stunning assortment of desserts. Because I donít have much of a sweet tooth, dessert has never been my favorite part of the meal, but the desserts I sampled at the Melrose were arguably the most impressive I have ever tried. Of particular note were the silky raspberry crËme brulee and the milk chocolate banana pot de crËme, a truly decadent dessert that featured warm baked chocolate encased in a thin wonton-like skin over a banana mousse and crunchy chocolate bottom. The Taylor Fladgate 10-year port, which is the recommended after-dinner drink for this dessert, made a great match to this rich chocolate-banana fusion. One other important note about the Melrose: It is one of the few Washington-area restaurants that offers both dinner and dancing, with a live band playing Friday and Saturday evenings, giving guests an ideal opportunity to work off their Melrose meals. Delicious Delivery Poste Moderne Brasserie, housed in the ultra-trendy Hotel Monaco, is a relative newcomer on the hotel restaurant scene, having just celebrated its one-year anniversary. But judging by my recent visit, Poste is well on its way to becoming a Washington dining staple. Poste is located in Washingtonís Penn Quarter, a burgeoning business district encompassing the MCI Center. The hotel and restaurant actually occupy the space of the original 1841 General Post Office Building on F Street, NWóhence the name ìPoste.î In fact, the restaurant used to be the mail sorting room, and because it is listed on the National Register of Historic Places, designers had to come up with clever ways not to alter the original structure. The result is a dramatic space conceived by Adamstein & Demetriou Architects that, like its postal predecessor, delivers the goodsónow in the form of inventive American cuisine from the kitchen of executive chef Joseph ìJayî Comfort. Poste has clearly traded in its mailroom digs for a much swankier look. The restaurantís intriguing layout winds through a lounge and bar area to an elevated dining platform that sits directly opposite the exhibition kitchen. Restored skylights line the 16-foot-high cast iron ceiling and make for a spectacular backdrop to the mahogany walls and eight-foot-high China cabinets that surround the bar. Further back are two more enclosed dining areas that serve as private function rooms. The adherence to keeping the buildingís original structure intact has lent a grand, Old-World charm to the restaurant, which makes for an interesting juxtaposition with its more contemporary dÈcor. In keeping with Hotel Monacoís modern feel, Posteís overall design pattern features a panoply of bold square shapes punctuated by rich browns, beiges and crËmes. Details such as square glass light fixtures at the tables and Asian-inspired bread plates add a sense of chic sophistication to the restaurant. I especially applaud the raised dining area that faces the kitchen, which consists entirely of booths. In addition to their sheer comfort and great vantage point, these booths feature a glass divider that separates diners from the kitchen. This often-overlooked concept gives guests all the benefits of an open kitchen without the excessive heat or noise. For many newer restaurants, modern too often translates into minimal when it comes to food, but that is certainly not the case with Poste, where portions are generous but not overly filling. Our meal began with the crab cakes, tomato-crab soup and a creamy lobster bisque. I have to admit that I was a bit apprehensive about ordering the crab cake appetizer after enjoying the Melroseís crab cakes, but I was pleasantly surprised by the Posteís creek house crab cakes, which feature jumbo lump blue crab and an accompanying chayote-citrus salad. The crab cakesóscrumptiously seasoned with a hot lemongrass-mustard sauceóplayed off the tangy, citrus-infused salad to give the appetizer an unexpected kick. And although Iím not a fan of cold soups, the chilled two-tomato soup with jumbo lump crab meat and chive oil was another excellent starter, with just a hint of spice to add a definite punch to the soup. Although Posteís menu features an array of imaginative dishesóincluding the Penn Quarter bouillabaisse with lobster, mixed shellfish, petit fish fillet and summer vegetables in a saffron-lobster brothóI decided to go s imple and try the pan-roasted chicken breast. Often, a true mark of excellence is how a kitchen treats dishes that tend to be overlooked in favor of more exotic fare, and Poste clearly pays equal attention to all of its creations. The savory chicken was perfectly paired with Yukon gold mashed potatoes and asparagus over a glace de poulet that captured the flavor of the chicken without drowning it in sweetness. For those with a penchant for pork, try the house-cured grilled pork tenderloin, which has been brined for 24 hours with a potpourri of seasoningsófrom dry chilies to orange juiceófor an intense burst of flavor. Finally, to finish off the meal we sampled the Postemint, a mint Bavarian with chantilly cream and shaved chocolate. Although mint makes for a more daring dessert choice, this smooth, mousse-like concoction had a distinctive aftertaste that may catch you a bit off guard but is sure to tantalize the tastebuds. For those with more of a sweet tooth, thereís the chocolate opera almond cake, a rich medley of chocolate ganache layered with mocha buttercream sure to have chocolate lovers singing. Guests should also take advantage of Posteís various events and specials, including fabulous happy hour specials on martinis that draw in large crowds. Itís a great excuse to relax in the restaurantís romantic outdoor patio or indulge in one of the sumptuous, oversize chairs in the restaurantís funky lounge area. Having It All at Gabriel Nestled in the heart of Dupont Circle and tucked away beneath the Radisson BarcelÛ Hotel Washington is the award-winning Gabriel, an upscale restaurant grounded in simple, seasonal cooking with a Southern twist. Gabrielís distinctive approach to dining has won the restaurant numerous accolades, which it proudly displays throughout its spacious dining room. The vibe here is more low-key and serene than many other hotel restaurants, though no less graceful. The dining room is interspersed with plush booths and tables and that make for a visually interesting space. Low ceilings and muted earth tones provide a cozy, warm setting that is highlighted with charming details such as hand-made clay jars and comfy pillows on the booths. Dinner began with warm biscuits and, instead of the usual butter or olive oil, a deliciously sweet molasses spread, which gave us a preview of the fun, offbeat mood of our upcoming meal. Gabriel prides itself on its innovative menu concept, which entails small sampler plates, similar to Spanish tapas, which guests can share. Although the concept is not new, Gabriel has successfully employed it over the years to become a local favorite and one of the few fine dining restaurants in Washington that offers the convenience of mixing and matching smaller portions. Although several single-portion ìmarketî entrees were available, I recommend trying Gabrielís smaller portions at least once. The ability to sample the full spectrum of chef Antonio Burrellís dishes, which fuse culinary traditions from Latin America, Spain and the American South, is the true draw of Gabriel, and even two people can take advantage of the small plates to experiment with different meals. After some discussion, we decided to start with the roasted tomato soup, an appetizing blend of fresh tomatoes and basil cream accompanied by a phenomenally tangy tomato salad. Our next appetizer was the mascarpone ravioli, which was topped with a savory batch of roasted wild mushrooms for a flavorful but subdued combination, followed by a sweet corn soup delicately accented with toasted corn and a rock shrimp spring roll. Next up came a steady stream of entrees that showcased Gabrielís flair for combining fresh, local ingredients with international cooking styles. Amid this parade of food, several dishes earned especially high marks, including the tuna with its smoky mesquite barbecue coating, the gently fried snapper filet with rock shrimp and a delectable lima bean succotash, the flat iron steak with thyme-roasted wild mushrooms, and the pan-seared crab cakes garnished with crispy onion rings and a succulent blend of roasted corn and yellow tomatoes. In fact, corn was an omnipresent feature throughout the evening, adding a wonderful sweetness to the dishes that was often tempered with a sprinkling of zesty tomatoes. Gabrielís presentation was sharp and effortless, with striking white plates drawing attention to the meticulously arranged food, and the service staff was friendly and assiduous. We capped off our mini-meals in grand fashion: with a medley of fresh berries topped with whipped cream and a divine banana bread pudding. It was a delightful end to a night of very diverse flavors. Anna Gawel is the managing editor of The Washington Diplomat.