October 2003












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Where Lifeís a Beach
Hip, Chic, Diverse Miami Has Become International Hotspot
by Anna Gawel

With the cold weather creeping back into the Washington area, now is the perfect time to head south to soak up some sun and tropical temperatures, and one destination that regularly attracts not only Washingtonians, but tourists from around the world, is Miamiís internationally renowned paradise hotspot: South Beach.

October marks the start of Miamiís high season, and in addition to its picturesque beaches and chic nightlife, the city is one of the most culturally diverse in the worldóand nowhere is Miamiís eclectic character more pronounced than in South Beach, a sizzling enclave of hotels, restaurants, nightclubs and shops.

Miami, and South Beach in particular, are no longer the retirement centers of yesteryear. In a relatively short period of time, the city has transformed itself from a sleepy, somewhat rundown town into a global getaway for the jet setóthereís a reason Madonna, Jennifer Lopez, Ricky Martin and scores of other celebrities own multimillion-dollar homes hereóas well as a major business and tourist hub.

Familiar Hotel Gets Funky
Our stay began at the South Beach Marriott, a recently built property situated directly on the beach off Ocean Drive. The Marriott chain is known for molding its hotels to fit the flavor of different cities, and this South Beach property is no exception.

The hotel touts itself as a hip, modern addition to the South Beach scene that still retains ìall the comforts of a Marriott,î and this motto indeed rings true. The yellow- and crËme-colored boutique hotel sits on the edge of South Beach, right next door to several prominent clubs and restaurantsóincluding the famed Joeís Stone Crabs, a mecca for crab loversóand is located just blocks from the Art Deco District, which is the main stretch of nightlife between 5th and 15th streets. But unlike other Art Deco properties, the hotel is also far enough away from the madness of South Beach so that you can actually get some sleep now and then.

The South Beach Marriott boasts spectacular vistas, with nearly every room offering a scenic view of either the beach or downtown nightlife. The dÈcor is a whimsical but not over-the-top mix of South Beach eccentricity and sleek, modern touches. The lobby and interior, for instance, feature rich mahogany and metal chrome accents for a simple but striking ambience.

The 11-story hotel also has some quirkier qualities, such as colorful, wire-like ìflowerî creations peppered throughout the propertyóa funky alternative to more generic hotel floral arrangementsóas well as a curious panoply of what appear to be little blue bathroom tiles on the hallway walls.

The hotel has a definite Art Deco feel, the mainstay of South Beach architecture, but Marriott was careful to forge its own style rather than mimicking the Tides, Delano and other independent Miami boutique hotels. The South Beach Marriottís design flair extends to its 236 guest rooms, where bright blue comforters and lime green curtains make for an eye-catching room experience. The different design elements mesh well and although they are certainly unique, they are not too much of a departure for travelers accustomed to Marriottís style and taste.

In addition, the hotel features 2,600 square feet of intimate meeting space, a full spa and health club as well as a rain forest aviary complete with waterfalls and wildlife, a fun although somewhat out-of-place addition to the property. But the true gem of the South Beach Marriott is its outdoor cabana and pool area. On the roomy patio, cabanas made of transparent white curtains fluttering over sumptuous blue lounge chairsóall of which borders a palm-tree filled parkómake for a wonderful romantic escape.

The pool, which overlooks the ocean, is an ideal place for relaxing after the beach or enjoying a poolside cocktail, and be sure to take advantage of the charming hammock nooks on the grassy area below the pool. Next door, guests can sample the hotelís cuisine at the Deco Blue Restaurant and Bar, which offers an outside patio great for lunch and an inside dining area that rivals the cityís hottest restaurants, both in design and food.

Of course, you will have to venture outside the hotel and when you do, there is no shortage of diversions to help entertain you.

Beautiful Sights
Before you hit the beach or take in the nightlife, one of the first things youíll encounter when you arrive in Miami is its infamous traffic. Fortunately, Miami International Airport is just minutes away from South Beach; however, youíll most likely get snarled in at least one traffic jam on the way to the hotel. As a consolation, while youíre waiting to get off I-395, be sure to marvel at the decadent celebrity homes flanked by yachts on Star Island and the line of cruise ships docked at the Port of Miami, all of which makes for a dramatic skyline.

Once youíve reached the hotel, food will most likely be on your mind and to satisfy that craving, head to 5th Street and Ocean Drive, where for the next 10 blocks youíll navigate through a parade

of hostesses and waiters trying to coax you into their restaurants.
The key to mastering this dining maze is to not give in too quickly. Although the lobster and fresh fish specials on display can be quite tempting, walk for at least several blocks to get a feel for the different restaurants and up your negotiating poweródepending on how long you resist, many managers are likely to buy you a few drinks to lure you into sitting down.

Several highlights along this stretch of restaurants include CafÈ Med and Oceans 10, both of which feature a live Salsa band and dancer. Oceans 10 also offers poolside dining and great happy hour drink and seafood specials (the shrimp cocktail is a particular standout). If youíre feeling adventurous, try Wet Willieís, a famed South Beach bar known for its inventive and powerful daiquiris.

For a quick bite, stop in at News CafÈ, a staple of Ocean Drive known for its expansive patio area, which is open 24 hours, and moderately priced meals. As the name suggests, there is also a mini-book and news depositary behind the cafÈ. For finer meals, head over to CafÈ Milanoónot related to the CafÈ Milano in Washington, D.C.ówhich features a lush tunnel of palm trees and other plants draped over the patio tables. Another good bet is the Tides, a hotel and restaurant on the northern end of South Beach. Known for its signature crisp, white linens and minimal but elegant dÈcor, the Tides has been known to host Jennifer Lopez.

To shed the extra pounds from dinner, take a quick stroll on the beach or a dip in the ocean, which is only a block away. Unlike the colder Atlantic waters up north, Miami offers clear, blue-green waters with far fewer waves and lukewarm temperatures throughout the year. Of course, there is also an abundance of water sports to choose from, including parasailing, jet skiing and snorkelingóbut the true spectator sport of South Beach is people watching.

Find a spot on one of Ocean Driveís sidewalk cafÈs and simply bask in the many cultures and faces walking by. The cityís strong international appeal is undeniable: Here, tourists and businessmen mingle with wannabe supermodels while retirees bump shoulders with young Salsa dancers.

Although this diverse mix of people spans the global spectrum, South Beach has a distinctly Latin feel, with a heavy emphasis on its Cuban roots. Meringue and other Latin beats can be heard around every corner, Spanish is the cityís de facto language, and tourists flock to sites such as Little Havana, although parts of this Cuban attraction should not be visited alone, especially at night.

Tourists will also discover a European sensibility in the cityís myriad sidewalk cafÈs and its less-rushed and very liberal attitude. As is characteristic of many European cities, in South Beach gratuity is often included in the checks, waiters will not hover around if you take your time sipping on some potent Cuban coffee, and going topless on the beach is commonplace, not taboo.

After youíve had your fill of food, sunbathing and people watching, itís time to shop. Although Ocean Drive is known for its restaurants, Collins Avenue is the place to find high-end boutiques and specialty stores, including Versace, Armani and the like. Another good shopping locale is Lincoln Road, which features a pedestrian mall, and Coconut Grove, which is about a 20-minute drive from South Beach.

Like Collins Avenue, Coconut Grove is home to offbeat boutiques and trendy cafÈs, but the atmosphere is less flashy and much more subdued. With its homemade Italian gelato stands and neighborhood restaurants, Coconut Grove offers a nice respite from the bustle of South Beach.

Nearby Coral Gables, which is graced with Art Deco-inspired luxury homes, also offers a quiet getaway. Here youíll find the Venetian Pool, a historic public pool sculpted to resemble an Italian waterfront village, with a coral rock lagoon, caves and fresh water fed in from artesian wells. The pool doesnít offer much space for sunbathing but is sure to be a hit with children on family outings.

North of South Beach is the much more expansive Miami Beach, where the tone is decidedly more business. Many of Miami Beachís oceanfront hotels cater to large conferences and meetings, and the Marriott chain has carved out a niche here with its Eden Roc Resort and Spa property.

The grand hotel, designed by architect Morris Lapidus, has retained its 1950s charm with enormous rosewood columns in its circular lobby, contemporary gold- and plum-themed motifs, and subtle reminders of the famous faces that used to grace the hotel, including Lucille Ball and Desi Arnaz.

With 13 meeting and function rooms totaling more than 36,000 square feet of spaceóincluding a seven-room business conference center with cutting-edge technologyóthe Eden Roc is ideally suited for larger gatherings.

In addition to its award-winning spa and fitness area, the hotel is the only one in Miami Beach to offer patio dining that directly overlooks the beach, and its indoor restaurant, Harryís Grille, features a table with an underwater porthole peeking into the outdoor pool. If you go, be sure to order the grilled salmon on a bed of salsa and vegetables, a delectable, spiced-up version of the all-too-common salmon special.

Notorious Nightlife
After a busy day of excursions, itís time to gear up for South Beachís busy nightlife, where clubs typically stay open until at least 4 a.m. Tourists flock to Mangoís, a prime attraction on Ocean Drive, where scantily clad guys and gals dance the tango atop the bar, providing equal-opportunity eye candy. Although Mangoís has a rowdy, college atmosphere, the club draws in curious onlookers of all ages eager to sample the tropical delicacies and exotic ìviews.î

For the most part, however, a majority of the nightclubs are located on Washington Avenue, two blocks away from Ocean Drive. Several upscale clubs are also within short walking distance of the South Beach Marriott, most notably Pearl and Opium.

The swanky Pearl has been fashioned in a í60s mod style with bright orange circles against a simple white background throughout the restaurant-club. By day, Pearlís restaurant specializes in fresh seafood specials with Asian-inspired overtones. The service is efficient and cool but lacks the pretension of other Miami hotspots, and the somewhat pricey food is well worth the cost. Guests can also take advantage of Nikki Beach Club, which is connected to Pearl and features a cabana-bar lounge sitting right on the beach. By night, Pearl becomes a popular nightclub with a wide range of music, including a booming retro í80s night, and a relaxed, low-key ambience.

For a more elitist club experience, head over to Opium, a labyrinth of themed club rooms where access depends mostly on status. Opium does open up a good amount of its non-VIP rooms to club-goers, but it gets overly crowded after only a couple of hours.

For our last evening, we decided to visit Tantra, a much-hyped restaurant with genuine grass floors and a sensual, Kama Sutra motif. For anyone looking to spend a fortune on bland food, this is a wonderful choice. The grass floor actually only extends slightly past the host stand, and while the halibut and other seafood entrees were moderately tasty, they did not warrant a price range of $40 to $90ófar higher than many of Washingtonís finest, and more deserving, restaurants. And although the aphrodisiac theme of Tantra is amusing, it too is highly overrated.

Youíre better off heading straight to Bedóthe club, that is. Located on Washington Avenue, B.E.D.ówhich stands for beverage, entertainment and diningóis the sexy ìitî spot of the moment (at least it was on our visit), with celebrity sightings almost guaranteed. But be prepared to dress fashionable and wait in line, unless of course youíre well connected.

If you donít have friends in high places though, a sure-fire way of gaining easy entrance to South Beachís trendiest clubsóand one of the areaís best-kept secretsóis to rely on your hotel concierge. At the South Beach Marriott, our concierge knew exactly where to go on what night, and he gave us an invaluable tip: To avoid waiting in line and paying high cover charges, book a late-night reservation while the club is still serving food, enjoy the dinner, and then relax for a bit until the restaurant converts into a club. It is simple but effective technique to experience South Beachís hottest hotspots.

Accommodations were provided by the South Beach Marriott. Room rates range from $235 to $300, depending on room type and time of year. For more information, please call (305) 536-7700 or (800) 228-9290 or visit www.marriott.com.

Anna Gawel is the managing editor of The Washington Diplomat.

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