Dishing It Out Chef Reda Takes Traditional Favorites to New Culinary Heights by Rachel Hunt and Stephen Qualiana Finding dinner after a show at the Kennedy Center is often a challenge, but theater-goers (and especially opera fans after a long night of Wagner) have one new choice worth checking out. Executive Chef Ron Reda is having a go on his own at Dish, located in The River Inn, two blocks from the Kennedy Center on 25th Street. Newly renovated by architects Adamstein and Demetriou, the space at River Inn is small and intimate, seating about 50 diners. The dÈcor is simple and soothing, all pale golds and greens, natural woods and accents of dark stone. The space is under the not-so-watchful eye of one of William Wegmanís weimaraners, who looks down from an eight-foot diptych titled ìComposed for the Ear as Well as the Eye.î For diners at Dish, the theme of the evening will be composed for the mouth as well as the eye, as chef Reda displays a talent that equals Wegmanís in his flair for the unexpected. Unlike many of his contemporaries, Reda did not begin his training at a prestigious cooking school but rather built upon the skills taught by his father by cooking for the crew of a U.S. Navy submarine. A n appreciative senior military officerís recommendation landed Reda in the Clinton White House, where he spent four years cooking for the first family and senior White House staff. With the change of administration, Reda took posts in a number of local establishments, where he honed his culinary and management skills. While working under chef Jamie Leeds at 15 ria, the chance came to run his own establishment, and Reda took the opportunity to develop his vision of a cuisine that takes time-honored American dishes and introduces unexpected elements that elevate these comfort dishes to new culinary heights. A striking example of this approach is on the lunch menu, Redaís version of a BLT ($12.95). Applewood smoked bacon, roasted tomatoes, spiced mayonnaise and quick-fried shrimp are served up on a perfectly fresh crusty ciabatta roll. This version of an old favorite lunch dish could grace a diner plate just as well. Although simple, another effective creation emerging from Redaís mantra ìprepare the expected, unexpectedlyî was a blackened pork chop ($14.95). Lightly dusted in blackening spice, the substantial double chop was marinated 24 hours in salt, brown sugar and molasses, then cooked to order, ensuring that it arrived tender and moist. The chop was served not with the traditional apple side but with a pear, poached in saffron, vanilla bean and a veal demiglace. Dish plays with design and texture as well as ingredients. The mozzarella and tomato on the first dish menu ($6.95) arrived as a whole, perfectly ripe tomato, split vertically. The slits in the tomato were filled with mozzarella that had been marinated in olive oil and rosemary and was accompanied by a basil oil and balsamic vinegar reduction and large shavings of parmesan cheese. The spinach dip with roasted artichoke ($8.95) was a slight misnomer as the balance was much different than the typical version, with artichoke being the much more dominant feature. Served at room temperature, this rich delight was a combination of lightly sautÈed spinach, roasted red peppers and large chunks of artichokes. Next, the coarse mixture was marinated in olive oil and then pureed lightly with cream cheese and parmesan. Dish pairs the dip, to very good effect, with pita chips that have been fried with a spicy chili powder. Reda does not stay within the confines of traditional American cooking but ranges broadly into ingredients and techniques that suit his purpose. His salmon carpaccio ($7.95) was a sophisticated combination of thinly sliced salmon tequila cured in-house and paired with caper berries, red onions and delicate mache greens. The crab salad starter ($11.95) was an exotic tropical version of lump meat, avocado and mango seasoned with fresh herbs and shallots and accented with caviar. Closer to home, the blue point oysters ($7.95) were perfectly prepared, lightly breaded and pan friedóbut rather than a cocktail-type sauce, they were served with a Greek-style cucumber yogurt sauce that perfectly complemented, rather than overwhelmed, the delicate flavor. Dishís signature dish (literallyóReda signs it in balsamic vinegar on the way out of the kitchen), seared rockfish, demonstrates Redaís ability to create de novo as well as improve on existing dishes. Filets of farm-raised rockfish are seared until the skin is crisp and are then served atop a bed of sautÈed julienne carrots, oyster mushrooms and basil oil. The dish is light, the flavors mellow, and the presentation clean. Redaís menu, although not extensive, offers a nice balance of meat and fish dishes and lacks only a range of vegetarian choices among the main dishes. But diners wishing to eat vegetarian may make a nice meal from among the appetizers and excellent side dishes. Most distinct among these is the sautÈed green beans with tomatoes. Whole fresh baby green beans are pan sautÈed until slightly seared and then paired up with pieces of cooked fresh tomato. This was a very different dish from its Greek and Southern cousins, and well worth trying. Other good sides (each $3) include an excellent coleslaw, jalapeno cornbread and sweet potato fries. Reda takes on the sweet dishes himself, offering choices that are in keeping with the American comfort food theme. Dish offers favorites such as rice pudding, apple pie brownie sundae, cheesecake and a brown cow (each $6.95). Some are absolutely traditional, such as the brown cow served up as ice cream in a glass and a bottle of root beer that you pour on yourselfóor have a twist such as the cranberries in the rice pudding. Two particularly noteworthy choices were the dishíd apple pie, a large slice of pie with perfectly flaky crust and nicely textured apple filling, accompanied by a mild cinnamon ice cream and rich caramel sauce. It was delicious but quite filling and enough for two to share. Another good choice is the baked peach pudding with peach ice cream and a white chocolate sauce. Its flavors were subtler than the apple pie, and the dish is lighter and less filling. We are hoping that the Kennedy Center or AFI Theatre have a good lineup this season so that we have a good excuse to return to Dish for a comforting meal. Dish is located in the River Inn at 924 25th St., NW. The telephone number is (202) 338-8707. Dress is urban casual. All major credit cards are accepted. The kitchen serves breakfast from 7 to 10 a.m. on weekdays and 8 to 10 a.m. on weekends. Lunch is served from 11:30 a.m. to 2 p.m. daily. Dinner is served from 5 to 11 p.m. nightly, and the bar is open from 11:30 a.m. to 11 p.m. Rachel Hunt and Stephen Qualiana are the restaurant reviewers for The Washington Diplomat.