Real Hospitality Local Luxury Hotels, Restaurants Each Offer Distinct Visits by Anna Gawel For this insert, The Washington Diplomat decided to add a slight twist to its usual industry coverage by taking a closer first-hand look at area hotels. The assignment for this lucky reporter: Stay at some of the finest hotels in the nationís capital, dine in their renowned restaurants, and essentially bask in utter indulgence for one night. We are grateful to each of these hotels for allowing us to peek inside their operations and for providing us with everything we needed for the story. And although all of the hotels profiled are undeniably experts at catering to every type of clientele and whimóhaving well established themselves in the hospitality industryólike different characters in a play, each hotel also proved to have its own distinct personality and niche on the Washington hotel scene, a fact that was reflected time and time again throughout each of these stays. Vive la France! Our hotel odyssey started at the newly built Sofitel Lafayette Square, a bastion of French flair and style nestled in the heart of Washington. Even though relations between France and the United State s may have cooled in recent months, politically minded Washingtonians shouldnít shy away from pampering themselves in these posh Parisian digs. In fact, the Sofitel celebrates what have historically been the strong ties between Washington and Paris with an intriguing array of photographs depicting the two capitals, a unique visual element that serves to highlight the modern designs throughout the hotel. Bold, sharp geometric shapes and eye-popping colors also figure into the overall design pattern, and these modern touches create a simple yet elegant ambiance that makes for a refreshing change of pace to some of the more formulaic, staid designs of older Washington hotels or the overly trendy feel of some of the newer ones. The rooms, for instance, are decorated in sleek, stylish furniture made of polished mahogany and metallic chrome accents complimented by soothing hues of white. The pieces avoid looking meek or sparse as other modern furnishings can sometimes appear, effectively filling the room without overcrowding it. A deep, rich shade of mahogany is also evident in the furnishings throughout the Sofitel and is typically offset by arrangements of white orchids in Spanish moss, a simple but striking visual juxtaposition that works very well for the hotel. The rooms feature nice extras such as sock ìfootiesî in addition to the requisite robe and slippers, a speaker in the bathroom that connects to the bedroom television, so you never miss a word of your favorite show, and sliding opaque glass-panel doors that add a funky, almost Asian-inspired touch to the bedroom. In addition, the soundproof walls and goose-down pillows and comforters are sure to tempt anyone into catching a few extra winks in the morning, and for those insatiable workaholics, thereís a 24-hour fitness center in case you need to do some crunches at 3 a.m. I only regretted that the spacious area outside my suite had not been built into a full-fledged balcony because the windows, though large, offered only snippets of the scenic downtown vistas outside, but a rooftop outdoor terrace will be available to guests once the weather gets warmer. The Sofitel was built on the previous Shoreham office building and with 220 rooms and 17 suites as well as six state-of-the-art meeting rooms, the hotel makes clever use of the space and original architecture of the building. A prime example of this is the ìlibraryî area, a charming nook adjacent to the reception desk where guests can brush up on French history, art or other topics while unwinding on bright ruby red-colored chairs. The Sofitelís restaurant, CafÈ 15, which specializes in contemporary French cuisine, is also a nice fit for the hotel, offering a spacious, upscale but cozy dining room. The dÈcor is actually more of what most people would perceive as traditionally French, with formal tables and chairs appointed in a lush purple motif and large impressionist works hanging overhead. The service struck the perfect balance of sophistication and attentiveness, and all of the food recommendations were right on the mark. I thought the Maine lobster entrÈe accompanied by angel hair pasta was a particularly delectable stand out, one of many by three-star Michelin chef Antoine Westermann. We also couldnít help but notice a fellow diplomatic diner in our midst: Ambassador of Georgia Levan Mikeladze, who was the focus of our December 2002 cover story. Although the food and the ambiance at CafÈ 15 were excellent, the most eye-arresting feature of the Sofitel is its lounge and bar area, a luxurious room filled with beautiful plush chairs set against enormous windows that offer a wide-open view of the streetscape outside. It is an ideal spot for an after-dinner drink or an after-work get-together, and its potent Martini creations are sure to make everyone feel a bit more joie de vieóSofitel style. Enduring Appeal Our next destination took us to an enduring symbol of the nationís capital, the famousóand infamousóThe Watergate Hotel. Although the actual hotel was not involved in the botched robbery that brought down a presidency, the Watergate still holds that mystique of good old-fashioned political scandal. And the hotel continues to court presidential attention with the addition of Jeffreyís, a high-end restaurant based out of Austin that was a favorite of George W. while he was governor of Texas. The addition of Jeffreyís is not the only change in store for this eminent hotel. The Watergate will most likely be bought out in the near future, although negotiations with several interested parties are still under way. As a result, the hotel is in a bit of a transition periodósomewhat unsure of what direction it will ultimately take under the new leadership. To some degree this explains some of the wear and tear we noticed, subtle signs that the hotel is starting to show her ageóalthough I suspect that once the issue of management is settled, renovations may be in the works. In the meantime, however, there is still plenty to see and do at this timeless hotel. Guests can take a swim in the outdoor or indoor pool, work out in the fitness area, oróas in my caseóenjoy a drink in the relaxing, very Washingtonian lounge or the smaller, cozier bar area. My suite was a well-appointed mix of comfort and classic elegance that boasted sweeping panoramas of the Potomac River and the lights of Georgetown. With an in-room fax, data port and spacious workspace, the room is well suited for the business traveler, but if youíd just like to unwind with a good book, the entertainment center offers a mini-library of sorts with myriad titles to choose from. Regardless if you decide to hole up in your suite and order room service or roam about the hotel, you are bound to have a pleasant experience with the service. From the bartender to the doorman to the reception desk attendant, I found the Watergate staff to be gracious, affable and very helpful but never overbearing or pretentious. In fact, from the moment I stepped out of the car, the valet chatted with me about the hotelís much-touted new restaurant, Jeffreyís, whetting my appetite for some tantalizing Tex-Mex creationsóand I would not be disappointed with my Texan dining adventure. With low ceilings, flickering candles and outstanding views of the Potomac and the dramatic curves of the Watergate complex, Jeffreyís offers a very intimate, romantic setting. The service was knowledgeable, recommending an excellent Chardonnay, but at times the whole experience felt rushed, with the dishes coming right after one another. The food, however, was extraordinary. From the butternut squash soup to the Texas rib eye, the dishes successfully merge contemporary high-brow fare with hearty, down-home cooking. The portions were innovative and mouthwatering, and although I was full from my meal, I still managed to devour a velvety cappuccino crËme brulÈe for dessert. Head over to the bar for a nightcap and you never know whom youíll run into. We found ourselves in the midst of quite a diverse crowd, including dancers from the American Ballet Theatre troupe, who had just finished up a performance next door at the Kennedy Center, and the president of Nicaragua along with his entourage, who was in town for a visitóa reflection of the Watergateís enduring national and international appeal. A Lovely Lady When the Renaissance Mayflower Hotel opened its doors back in 1925, it was crowned the Grande Dame of Washington, D.C., and after 77 years and countless renovations, this lovely lady is as grand as ever. Our stay at The Mayflower could be described as nothing less than superb. From the moment we stepped into the impressive lobby, no detail was overlooked. But what is truly remarkable about The Mayflower is its ability to fuse its lavish, almost larger-than-life surroundings with an atmosphere that is at the same time warm, inviting and never imposing or stuffy. Regal 24-karat-gold trimmings and mammoth marble pillars, for instance, are tempered with soft colors and hues and expansive skylights for a light and airy feel. Greek and Roman neoclassical statues and artwork also give the hotel an alluring old-world charm, which is very reminiscent of grand European hotels during the gilded age. In addition, the staff prides itself on friendly and accessible service that makes any guest feel at ease during their visit. Still, the hotelís opulence is undeniable. A glittering parade of chandeliers lines the elegant promenade, which stretches an entire block and is flanked by the hotelís legendary ballrooms. But once again, this opulence is never overwhelming. Couches and sitting areas in understated pastels are snuggled in virtually every corner of the hotel and exude comfort and convenience. Fascinating historical tidbits are around every corner as well. Be sure to head over to the conciergeís desk to marvel at an exquisitely rendered replica of the Mayflower, the ship for which the hotel was named. Then relax in the hotelís Town & Country Loungeómodeled in the very masculine tone of a traditional English club, complete with leather chairs and fox and hound paintings. As I sat sipping on a cosmopolitan from the barís extensive martini list, I found it interesting to think that years ago the lounge actually wouldíve been off limits to me because it used to be a men-only establishment. The Mayflowerís strong historical appeal is also reflected in its guest rooms and suites, which have retained much of the hotelís original splendor while not failing to keep up with the times. Our suite, for instance, came complete with a modern desk equipped with data ports and other high-tech basics, as well as a more old-fashioned counterpart, the type of antique desk that graced the original rooms back in the 1920s, when such a suite would run you a whopping $18 a day. Time, however, has clearly not faded the brilliant and carefully preserved period furniture found in the rooms and suites. Mirrored walls added a sense of space to our already large suite, which also featured an eclectic mix of artwork ranging from ornate urns atop the fireplace to luxurious oriental rugs to scattered contemporary paintings. But be sure to venture outside your room to experience The Mayflowerís stunning CafÈ Promenade, located just off the hotelís main promenade. With its lofty ceilings, meticulously restored murals and gorgeous floral arrangements, this Mediterranean-style restaurant transports diners to a lush garden in an Italian villa. Two bronze statues greet guests as they enter the dining room, which is anchored by a gleaming chandelier and skylights above a spectacular centerpiece of tulips. My grandmother, who joined me on this visit, applauded the scores of different floral bouquets, and she was especially moved by the guitarist who serenaded restaurant-goers atop a balcony with ballads such as Luiz Bonf·ís ìMorning of the Carnivalî from the 1959 Brazilian film ìBlack Orpheusîóa subtle nuance that further reinforced The Mayflowerís romantic feel. The service was impeccable and I would personally recommend the crab cakes for any seafood buff, a tried-and-true dish that included such innovative twists as two curious-looking and tasty waffle potatoes wedged atop the cakes. And although tiramisu has become standard dessert fare at most restaurants, it proved to be a sublime choice at The Mayflower, where pastry chefs effortlessly blended the potent flavor of the coffee and liqueur with an exceptionally light and fluffy cream. As we dined, apparently Oprah Winfrey (joined by her two canine companions) was speaking at a conference next door, and earlier in the day, the first lady of Peru had checked out just before our arrival, but we were too busy savoring our food to worry about the missed celebrity sightings. Breakfast at the CafÈ Promenade was equally enjoyable, but unfortunately we couldnít stay to sample the afternoon tea because yet another snowstorm was barreling down on D.C.óalthough at least now we have a reason to come back. A Gem in Georgetown The only things I knew about the St. Gregory Luxury Hotel and Suites before staying there was that like the Sofitel, it was a relatively new hotelóone of a wave of boutique-type hotels cropping up in the areaóand that it was bordered by Georgetown, which meant that it probably attracted a slightly younger crowd. After my stay, I was pleasantly surprised to discover just how limited my knowledge had been. At every turn, the St. Gregory impressed me with its distinctively charming style. The staff was gracious and attentive with a friendly, down-to-earth manner. A life-size statue of Marilyn Monroe greets guests as they enter the hotel, an unconventional design choice that adds a quirky, whimsical flavor to the hotel. But donít let Ms. Monroe fool youóthe St. Gregory does not go overboard with funky frills, instead striking just the right balance of hip, urban sophistication, eccentric fun and plush comfort geared toward todayís savvy business traveler. With 100 suites and 54 guest rooms, the St. Gregory places a heavy emphasis on providing full-service, apartment-style accommodations that help guests feel right at home. But these accommodations are much nicer than your typical apartment. The suites are a warm blend of overlapping yellows, oranges and other muted earth tones that envelop you in chic elegance and sheer comfort. The fully stocked kitchen, bathed in rich forest green, and light wood accents act as a perfect color compliment to the furnishings. The bathroom playfully mixes an antique pedestal sink with contemporary artwork, and directly opposite the bathroom is a lavish marble vanity area that every woman is sure to love. This skillfully executed dÈcor would put any style guru to shame and is precisely how I would decorate my apartment if I had a bit more timeóand money. And kudos to the St. Gregory for paying as much attention to the flowers inside the guest rooms as to those outside in the lobbyóa key but often overlooked design factor in many hotels. My suite was strewn with beautiful white orchids, silk red roses and other creative floral arrangements that added to the eye-pleasing dÈcor. The bedroom was a virtual mecca for relaxation and rejuvenation. A calming color potpourri of beige, olive and crËme sets the stage for a restful nightís sleep, and the mattresses could be described as nothing less than heavenly. I almost wanted to skip dinner and go right to sleep, but my stomach ordered otherwise. Downstairs guests can eat at the swanky, low-key Donnaís, a combination bar, restaurant and popular local coffee spot. If youíre dining, be sure to ask for a table on the top level, which is clad with cool taupe leather walls that restaurant-goers can sit against. I was a bit disappointed with my chicken Caesar salad, which was desperately in need of some dressing, but the tender calamari accompanied by a spicy, robust marinara sauce more than made up for it. For the entrÈe, the shrimp and linguine in a creamy tarragon tomato sauce was a flavorful combination that was very satisfying but not too heavy. The St. Gregoryís proximity to Georgetown offers guests a multitude of la te night diversions, so before turning in for the night, be sure to check out some of Washingtonís hottest nightspotsóall just a short walk away. Rolling Out the Red Carpet Last but certainly not least, we capped off our whirlwind hotel tour with the epitome of regal Washingtonian style, the Willard. Aptly dubbed the Residence of Presidents, the Willard Inter-Continental Washington has hosted nearly every president since James Polk, and I got a taste of this presidential treatment by staying in the Willardís stately Presidential Suite, a setting fit for royaltyóand journalists, as the case may be. Totaling nearly 3,000 square feet, the Presidential Suite boasts breathtaking views of the Washington Monument and is spread out over a dual-parlor living room, a dramatic black-and-white marble foyer with two guest bathrooms, a sumptuous master bedroom that leads to two more bathroomsóone with a Jacuzzióand a formal oval dining room with an adjoining prep kitchen capable of hosting small receptions. The majestic ambiance coupled with the Willardís prime location on Pennsylvania Avenue has made the hotel a premier destination for heads of state and other dignitaries visiting Washington. Beyond its sheer luxury, however, the Presidential Suite serves a practical purpose for many high-ranking officials, who often rent out the entire floor to house their delegations. And the magnificent living room, which was modeled with the White House in mind, provides an ideal spot for hosting and impressing fellow colleagues. Before my arrival at the Willard, I had just visited the National Gallery of Art and stepping into the Presidential Suite, it felt as if I was walking into yet another museum. Original artwork abounds at every corner and many of the paintings were actually very reminiscent of the recent National Gallery exhibit of still lifes by French painter Anne Vallayer-Coster. In addition to the artwork, the suiteís dÈcor is a vivid color scheme of maroon and gold shaped around an oval sunburst pattern, a mesmerizing design theme that is evident in the majority of the Willardís suites. Though ideal for conducting business, the suite allows for plenty of relaxation with two large televisions equipped with DVDs, a Jacuzzi, and a decadent four-poster bed that requires a stepping stand to mount. However, what truly made the entire stay a sort of surreal experience was walking by the suiteís many windows with the omnipresent sight of the Washington Monument staring back at me, a stunning backdrop that never lets guests forget the tremendous center of power theyíre visiting. For those who wonít be staying in the Presidential Suite anytime soon, the Willardís famed Beaux-Arts-style lobby provides a dazzling sight for all to see. A fragrant floral showpiece lies in the center of this palatial room, filled with marble columns, mosaic floors and elaborately carved ceilings. History is also abundant in the Willard lobbyóit is after all where President Ulysses S. Grant coined the term ìlobbyist.î Encircling the lobby above is the Nest Lounge, where the women were relegated to when the men folk needed to discuss business back in the dayóironically forcing them to literally look down on the men below. That lounge is currently being renovated, although it will undoubtedly retain some of its original feminine charms. History buffs can also check out the Round Robin Bar, an intimate space that has seen a long line of historical heavyweightsóand drinkersófrom Buffalo Bill to Walt Whitman. The quintessential Washington bar is still the place to hobnob with D.C.ís elite, drawing quite an after-work crowd, but what really surprised me was how lively late night could be at the Willard. On a regular Tuesday night, for example, both the Round Robin and the lobby were bursting with people well past midnight. And without the bustle of everyone checking in and out, late night offers the perfect time to sip on the barís famed mint juleps and take in all the extravagance of the lobby. Another highlight of the evening was dining in the Willard Room, an incredible two-story, oak-paneled room that wraps guests in secluded, turn-of-the-century luxury. Interestingly, the restaurant stands in stark contrast to The Mayflowerís CafÈ Promenade, which could almost be considered a feminine version to the darker, more masculine Willard Room. Surrounded by giant marble columns, guests dine under a soft glow of light that cascades down from the sea of chandeliers overhead. Dotting between the tables to make sure everything is running smoothly is the very amiable and charming Francisco Nieto, maitre dí of the Willard Room and a veteran of the restaurant industry. Whether gathering for a business meeting, celebrating a wedding anniversary, or simply stopping in to sample the seasonal menu, Nieto tends to every detail to make everyoneís dining experience a memorable one. The wide selection of food options at the Willard was also impressiveóroom service choices for instance range from a roasted Colorado rack of lamb to a simple but scrumptious turkey club. And although it might seem odd to talk about bargains at the pricey Willard, the lunch and dinner buffets at the hotelís more casual CafÈ 1401 are a very good bargain, proving that the Willard is as versatile as it is venerable. Anna Gawel is the assistant managing editor of The Washington Diplomat.