Natural Rhythms Equinox Dishes Up Environmentally Conscious American Cuisine by Rachel Hunt and Stephen Qualiana Since opening in 1999, Equinox has provided downtown diners with modern American cuisine with an environmental twist. Equinox is the brainchild of executive chef Todd Gray and manager Ellen Kasssoff-Gray, who share both a love of good food and activist natures. Chef Todd came to Equinox with impressive classical training and previous experience. He began his restaurant career at La Petite Auberge and after graduating from the Culinary Institute of America, served in the kitchens of La Colline, Galileo and The Watergate under the tutelage of their internationally noted chefs. While working with Roberto Donna at Galileo, Gray was able to serve in kitchens in northern Italy where Donna himself had trained. During these stints, Gray was developing a unique American cooking style and an environmental ethic that would become the foundation upon which Equinox is based. Since opening, the Grays have operated Equinox with an unwavering commitment to environmentally sensitive menu planning, reflected in the name of the restaurant, which brings to mind the seasonal nature of the food supply. And that is what diners can expect, and be sure of, on any visit to Equinox. Whenever possible, the fresh ingredients they use are grown within 100 miles of Washington, D.C., and the fish on the menu are those that are not endangered and can be sustainably harvested. Although dish choices are fairly small, the menu does not lack anything but the absence of the ubiquitous Chilean sea bass, and it benefits from the presence of the fresh local ingredients. Because of the Grayís focus on seasonally available ingredients, the menu changes throughout the year to reflect the local growing seasons. On a recent visit, root and cold-weather vegetables were woven throughout the preparations. The meal began auspiciously with a complimentary surprise bite of ceviche served up in a large white ceramic spoon, a harbinger of things to come. The menu that followed demonstrates Grayís creativity in working within the limits he has placed upon himself. Among the starters on the current menu, the scallops are a real stand out. Perfectly seared Maine scallops are served in a bed of creamy rich polenta and dressed with Applewood bacon and a citrus butter ($14). The more traditional salad was also excellent. Endive and thin slices of Bartlett pear with English Stilton cheese and walnuts, dressed in a light sherry-based vinaigrette ($11) offered a surprise. The walnuts were candied with a distinct sweetness that offset the sharp bite of the endive and Stilton. The only disappointment on a recent visit was the soup, a purÈe of white bean with salsify root, poached shrimp and crispy ham ($11). Despite the promising ingredients, the soup was bland and served tepid, which did not enhance the flavor. Main courses included a number of tempting choices. Perhaps most dramatic in presentation was the angler fish ($27). Set in the center of a large round white plate, thick rounds of this firm, tasty white fish were wrapped in dark bacon and served atop a mound of Napa cabbage, surrounded by a rich celery root purÈe and set off by a deep colored red wine mustard jus. The delicate balance of salt, sweet and bitter made this a very satisfying dish. Another nice fish choice was the American red snapper ($27). A thick filet was grilled with the skin on, effectively preserving the moisture and texture, and served over lightly wilted spinach. A sharp, rich saffron coulis with cured olives and roasted shallots accompanied the mild fish nicely. One of the few meat offerings on the menu was a rib rack of Niman Ranch pork ($28). The dish was served on a bed of brussels sprout leaves (a particularly delightful way of serving this much-maligned vegetable), Applewood bacon and caramelized apple. The hefty portion of lean white pork was mildly flavored and perfectly complemented by the robust bacon and apple. This dish was a perfect antidote to the outside snowstorms and slush. For those wanting a vegetarian option, the Piedmontese agnolotti ($23) is an interesting and excellent choice. The ricotta cheese-filled pasta was pan tossed in sage butter, black truffle and Parmesan Reggiano. The dish harkens back to Grayís earlier training and was a welcome addition among the other more modern offerings. Dessert at Equinox, created under the expert hand of pastry chef Lisa Scruggs, matched the rest of the menu with its creativity and appeal. For chocolate lovers, Scruggs offers a bittersweet chocolate cake ($8) with a warm center served with a vanilla anglaise. It was accompanied by a tiny scoop of tangy tangerine sorbet in a cookie shell. For those who crave the classics, Scruggs created a delightful ginger creme brulÈe ($8). Very rich and more distinctly flavored than the traditional version, she paired the brulÈe with a mellow cherry coconut biscotti that worked nicely with the sharpness of the ginger. A choice that will appeal to citrus lovers is the rum savarin lemon curd ($7). A tropical fruit compote accompanied this sprightly version of an English classic, giving the creation an interesting New World-Old World dynamic. Perhaps less distinctive than other choices, but none-the-less delicious was the rich and creamy lemon charlotte ($8) served with pomegranate sauce. Equinox is a comfortable restaurant, understated but not to the point of starkness. Diners are offered a choice of several dining rooms. The atrium, our favorite space, is like a year-round side walk cafÈ, fully enclosed in glass so that diners can watch the weather or the traffic on Connecticut Avenue. On a rainy or snowy night, the atrium has a decidedly cozy feel enhanced by the warm glow of candles on the tables. The main dining room has a slightly more formal feel. With booths and small tables, it is more intimate than the open atrium. There is a small dining room in the wine cellar of the restaurant (of which the restaurant is justifiably proud) that is the most romantic and cozy of the three rooms. It can be closed off for private functions. Patrons wishing for a more casual meal can also eat at the bar, at which a special menu is available. One of the nice things about eating at Equinox is that after enjoying a delightful meal, you can feel virtuous in that youíve also eaten an environmentally sound meal. Equinox is located at 818 Connecticut Ave., NW. The telephone number is (202) 331-8118. Dress for the restaurant has a wide rangeófrom jeans to business casual. All major credit cards are accepted. Equinox is open for lunch Monday to Friday from 11:30 a.m. to 2 p.m., and for dinner Monday to Friday from 5:30 to 10 p.m. Dinner on Saturday is served from 5:30 to 10:30 p.m., and Sunday from 5 to 9 p.m. Reservations are required for lunch and dinner. Rachel Hunt and Stephen Qualiana are the restaurant reviewers for The Washington Diplomat.