Going Downtown Chef Geoffís Newest Location Offers Broad Range of Dishes by Rachel Hunt and Stephen Qualiana Since September, downtown diners have had a chance to discover just what it is that has made Chef Geoffís first location in upper Northwest such a fixture for those from the neighborhood, American University and the local business community. Owner and inspiration Geoffrey Tracy comes to the restaurant trade by way of hard work in the business, superior training and top honors at the Culinary Institute of America in Hyde Park, and other divagation along the way, such as a degree in theology from Georgetown University. Altogether, his experience and education have given Tracy the ability to discern and deliver what his customers want, when they want it, and the way they want it. Interesting and good food, efficient service and a comfortable atmosphere are all hallmarks of the Chef Geoff experience, whether uptown or downtown. Chef Geoffís Downtown is in the former Christopher Marks space, which is still dominated by the elegant dark-wooden paneling, but the steak-house atmosphere is gone and a more contemporary stark look prevails, with black- and-white photos on the walls and a feeling of open space. Like the uptown Chef Geoffís, the downtown menu is extensive, offering choices for a formal multi-course meal, light lunch or dinner, or a simple snack. The menu at the downtown location, although it shares many of the same basic foods as the uptown location, goes a step further, bringing in a broader range of ingredients in more unusual dishes. But like the other Chef Geoffís, the menu varies depending on the availability of fresh seasonal ingredients. Chef Geoffís approach to many of the dishes is subtle. Tracy and executive chef Johnny Monis begin with a recognizable dish, for instance, Vietnamese spring rolls. But one by one, they replace the standard ingredients with novel ones, creating a vaguely familiar but startlingly original version. The duck spring rolls with passion fruit dipping sauce ($6.95) were a prime example. Duck replaced pork; julienne jicama, pickled cucumber and peppers replaced julienne carrots; and the fish sauce was replaced with a spicy, barely sweet passion fruit sauce. Among the appetizers, the tuna and avocado tartare ($8.95) was another excellent surprise. When it arrives, you might think you have gotten guacamole by mistake, so closely does it resemble that ubiquitous Tex-Mex dish. But one bite tells you this is something far more inspired. Delicate raw tuna is chopped together with avocado, black sesame seeds, and a light sesame oil and vinegar dressing, served on a bed of sliced cucumber and topped with a sesame cracker. Our only complaint with this brilliant dish was that there werenít enough crackers to go around. Another appetizer we enjoyed was the rocket, pear, prosciutto and chevre croque monsieur ($7.95). This was not your average ham and cheese toastie. Once again Tracy and Monis have improved upon the original by adding an inspired collection of novel ingredients. Soups at Chef Geoffís were a standout, and fortunately the menu offers a sampler ($7.95) so that you are not forced to select from among several tempting choices. On a recent evening, the choices were a mushroom cappuccino ($6.95), apple curry and crab ($6.95) and butternut squash ($5.95). All three were light and mild, and although we found the curry apple crab the most satisfying, itís had to beat soup served with whipped creamóas was the mushroom soup. Chef Geoffís offers several salads both as side and as main courses. The roasted garlic Caesar (5.95) is adequate but lacks punch. However, the dinner version, served with well-prepared fried calamari ($9.95) was an interesting twist. As a side, the beet tartare, pistachio and goat cheese salad ($7.95) was an interesting and satisfying choice, if you like beets. Chef Geoffís offers a balance of meat and fowl entrÈes with rather fewer fish and seafood choices. The potato- and cumin-crusted salmon ($16.95) served with lightly sautÈed spinach, shallots, hazelnuts, raisins and balsamic vinegar was milder than the description might suggest, but was very effective. The fish, sealed in its coating of potato, was cooked perfectly inside while the crust browned and crisped nicely outside. The portobello pappardelle was an excellent pasta choice ($14.95), with the smoked portobello imparting a distinctly smoky flavor to the dish. The sliced mushrooms, lightly cooked, small pieces of asparagus, and ribbons of al dente pappardelle were tossed with a mushroom broth and blue cheese. Unlike the salmon, this was a very strongly flavored dish. And although the portobello pappardelle was the only vegetarian dish among the entrÈes (and can be made vegan), the kitchen was willing to work with patrons to prepare a dish suitable to their specific dietary requirements. At the suggestion of the wait staff we tried the pistachio-crusted rack of lamb ($23.95). The dish was well prepared and the lamb of excellent flavor. Although the pistachios added an interesting texture to the dish, they did not significantly affect the flavor. And, as is so often the case with rack of lamb, although it was very tender, it was also quite fatty. The pairing of the lamb with horseradish mashed potatoes worked nicely, and the slightly bitter roasted parsnips on the side complemented the potatoes and offset the richness of the lamb. Desserts are the province of executive pastry chef Courtney Carroll, and she does her dominion proud. Perhaps the most unusual choice was the hazelnut and white chocolate pumpkin cheesecake ($6.95). Although the description is accurate, it does not convey the real essence of this treat, which was not a heavy cake-like version, but much more like mousse. It is sweet, but not very, and the squashy character of the pumpkin was offset by the strong flavor of the hazelnut and white chocolate. For chocolate lovers, the chocolate tuxedo tower ($6.95) was a satisfying concoction of white-and-dark chocolate mousse cake served with a raspberry coulis with more than a hint of peach. For the lighter choice, well, smaller in any case, fruit covered with cookies, truffles and chocolate ($6.95) was just right for a bit of sweet without too much volume. The truffles vary daily but all are excellent. Chef Geoffís Downtown location, across 13th Street from the Warner Theatre and around the corner from the National Theatre, makes it an ideal location for pre- and post-show dining, and the restaurant has put together a three-course prefix pre-theater menu ($23.95) available from 4 to 6:30 p.m. The kitchen is open late, and the bar later still, making it one of the few places to get decent food to eat downtown after a long show. The staff at Chef Geoffís Downtown is knowledgeable, helpful and usually efficient. Nights when there are shows at the theaters close by are a bit more hectic than dark nights, but the staff is geared to helping patrons make seven or eight oíclock curtains. Periodically, Tracy and Monis put together special tasting menus to sample a variety of drinks and specialties that do not appear on the menu. Recent events have included six-course wine and beer tasting evenings. These parties provide a special opportunity to see the kitchen at its most creative. In putting together his plan for Chef Geoffís Downtown, Tracy looked closely at who his customers might be, and assembled menus, events and services that would appeal to the very diverse clientele that a downtown restaurant must serve. The establishment is casual without being informal, has capacity to serve the influx of lunchtime and theater crowds, but offers spaces for intimate and lingering meals. And unlike many of the other restaurants in the area, Chef Geoffís Downtown offers an extensive and excellent beer menu as well as a wine menu. Chef Geoffís is located at 1301 Pennsylvania Ave., NW. The telephone number is (202) 464-4461. Dress for the restaurant is casual and reservations are suggested but not required. The restaurant is open Monday to Saturday for lunch from 11 a.m. to 4 p.m., and for dinner from 4 to 11 p.m., Monday to Sunday. Sunday brunch is served 10:30 a.m. to 3 p.m. All major credit cards are accepted. Rachel Hunt and Stephen Qualiana are the restaurant reviewers for The Washington Diplomat.