Urban Comfort 15 Riaís Menu Offers American Dishes With Creative Twist by Rachel Hunt and Stephen Qualiana A number of hotel restaurantsóor restaurants in hotels because many are independentóhave been opening up lately in Washington, D.C. In the competitive downtown market, hotel restaurants canít afford to be just the closest place to get something to eat for tired travelers; they have to be able to bring in diners from beyond the hotel clientele. Tucked into the corner of the Washington Terrace Hotel lobby, 15 ria (which is short for its address, 1515 Rhode Island Ave.) has been doing just that since July. On a recent visit, we stepped from a brilliant fall evening on the streets of Northwest Washington into an interior that echoed the muted earth tones outside, which made for a comfortable design blend in the dining room. The restaurant picks up the hotelís 1960s-inspired, snowflake-flower-patterned carpets and sets it off with retro upholstery, an exposed stone gas-burning fireplace (very welcome on wet November nights), bare wood tables, and simple place settings. One large swath of rust-colored satin covering a wall adds an interesting, eclectic touch. There is also an interesting feeling of space created perhaps by the din ing room, hotel lobby, bar and lounge flowing into each other without much division. Executive chef Jamie Leeds was brought to 15 ria from New York by the Myriad Restaurant Group, for whom she had served as consulting executive chef for a number of their enterprises, including the Tribeca Grill in Manhattan. She took the lead in putting together an approach that starts with good old American standards, known these days as comfort foods, and brought into the mix fresh local ingredients and a creative instinct that led to some real surprises. So, given the fall season, it is not surprising that winter squash, duck and brussels sprouts should appear on the menu. But it was a surprise where some of them turned up. Starters included a mild roasted butternut squash soup with a maple cream and tart apples ($6). Good as a soup, it was so thick it could have served just as well as a side dish. The sides that evening also featured seasonal vegetables, nicely roasted kabocha squash and braised brussels sprouts with crispy pecans ($6 each). Patrons wishing to eat vegetarian will do well at 15 ria. In addition to a number of large vegetable sides, including really wonderful braised collards (not, however, always strictly vegetarian), the menu offers several salads and a rotating entrÈe. This evening, the choice was shepherdís pie. Those who think of this dish as the best way to get rid of leftover mashed potatoes will be in for a real surprise. This vegetarian version of wild mushrooms, fresh spinach, and of course mashed potatoes served with a rich port jus ($16) was excellent and much lighter than the typical dish. Leedsís menu demonstrates a real knack for creating novel and winning combinations. Some were obvious, such as the shrimp and calamari ($8) starter. She paired the lightly battered and fried shellfish and served the mixture up in a brown paper cone with a slightly spicy cayenne remoulade. Some dishes were clever, such as the pear salad with aged goat cheese ($8), a witty twist on the walnut-apple-blue-cheese version we have had so much over the past few years. Soft bib lettuces, roasted pecans, mild goat cheese and a sharp sherry vinaigrette made this a delicious departure from typical versions. And other dishes, such as the seared sea scallops ($22), were downright inspired. In keeping with the homey touch, 15 ria has its own version of the blue plate special, a meat and two sides. Each day of the week, a different meat entrÈe is featured along with a choice of the two sides. The selection of specials, which vary monthly, includes simple, robust choices. On a recent Monday, crispy duck was featuredóroasted to a turn, with the skin crackling crunchy. On Fridays, there is an excellent fish fry, lightly battered and perfectly fried, with the outside perfectly crisp and the interior moist and tender. If you are the kind of eater who never warmed up to straight-up ethnic foods with odd ingredients and aromas, youíll be at home at 15 riaóin fact, you may feel downright comfortable. 15 ria is located in the Washington Terrace Hotel at 1515 Rhode Island Ave., NW. The telephone number is (202) RIA-0015. Breakfast is served Monday to Friday from 6:30 to 11 a.m., and Saturday and Sunday from 7 a.m. to 1 p.m. Lunch is served Monday to Friday from 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. Light fare is served Monday to Friday from 2:30 to 5:30 p.m., and Saturday and Sunday from 11:30 a.m. to 5:30 p.m. Dinner is served from Sunday to Thursday from 5:30 to 10:30 p.m., and Friday and Saturday from 5:30 to 11:30 p.m. Dress is business casual. All major credit cards are accepted. Rachel Hunt and Stephen Qualiana are the restaurant reviewers for The Washington Diplomat.