Golf War Many Harried Diplomats Seek Solace at Area Greens by Mark Hilpert President Harry Truman once said that ìif you want a friend in Washington, get a dog.î Indeed, it is a city largely defined by adversarial relationships: conservatives versus liberals, hawks versus doves, lobbyists versus crusading campaign finance reformers. But even for the most dogged partisans, eventually the thrill of the fight gives way to weariness of the constant political warfare. Perhaps thatís one reason why Washingtonians love golf. The nature of the game is the struggle, not against others, but against an inanimate enemy called bogey. It is such a vexing, implacable, unforgiving adversary that humans instinctively bond together against it. Playing partners usually root for each other to master the beast, taking pleasure in each otherís victories and commiserating in defeats, rather than merely trying to beat each other. Many foreign diplomats, who usually face similar political wrangling back home, also seek solace in a good golf game. After all, golf is one of the worldís few universal sportsówith courses found from the tropics of Fiji to the chillier climes of Scandinavia. The major tournaments that comprise pro golfís vaunted ìGrand Slamî are just as likely to be won by foreigners as Americans. And the losers speak the same lingua franca: ìIf only that birdie putt on 18 had broken left instead of right Öî While Washingtonís best courses are usually private, foreign expatriates have a multitude of quite playable public courses where they can tee off against the weekís frustrations. A handful even host enough diplomatic guests that they could probably master any Foreign Service exam. Heading for the Mountains Besides the refuge offered by golf from political warfare, diplomats often use the sport as an excuse to leave Washingtonís cavernous potholes and constant sirens for the peace of the great outdoors. One place providing such a haven is Marylandís Whiskey Creek Golf Club. Located 35 miles outside Washington in Ijamsville, Md., near the Catoctin Mountains, the rural club is built on rolling hills offering spectacular views of the surrounding countryside. While the surroundings are all-American, the course has a distinct international flavor. Two-time U.S. Open champ Ernie Els, a South African, consulted on the design, which is beginning to attract notice. ìWe often get calls from local embassies to host small groups,î said tournament director Mark Montgomery, who cited visitors from South Korea, Japan and Britain. Whiskey Creek will host its first major event in Octoberóthe Swedish-American Chamber of Commerceís ìSwedish Open.î More than 140 participants are expected for the tournament, comprising the de rigueur breakfast, shotgun start and awards dinner. After a round, players can cool themselves on the wrap-around porch of the graceful clubhouse, which evokes the feel an Australian country farmhouse. Dialing for Diplomats Another club played by the Massachusetts Avenue crowd is Virginia Oaks Golf Course in Gainesville, Va., 35 miles from Washington on the other side of the Potomac. Visitors from the Australian and Korean embassies have been drawn to the P.D. Dye-designed course, along with members of the Swedish-American Chamber of Commerce, according to general manager Jim Larkin. The course, part of a 330-acre residential community, usually hosts foreigners for tournaments of between 30 and 100 golfers. Larkin said Virginia Oaks is proactive in calling embassies to drum up such business and often finds a receptive ear. ìGolf is an international sport,î he said. ìThey can feel at home and talk business and personal stuff. It gets them away from the hustle and bustle of America.î The Aussies and Koreans have obviously made the Northern Virginia rounds, also playing at nearby Reston National Golf Course, just off Interstate 66. Both embassies have brought between 30 and 40 visitors out for golf and dinner events, according to general manager T.J. DeJoseph. ìWe have an attractive location because weíre just off the [Dulles] Toll Road,î he said, adding that he would consider offering special memberships for diplomats. ìWe try to sell that because the easy access makes one-day events very easy for busy people coming out from Washington.î Brie and Birdies A more relaxing drive down the scenic George Washington Parkway for a golf outing might be just the ticket for members of the local French community still stressed by recent election upheavals back home. The French-American Chamber of Commerce (FACC) has already made Mount Vernon Country Club in Alexandria, Va., a home for its annual tournament. The ìFrench-American Openî on Sept. 30 is expected to draw more than 90 golfers, including many from the aerospace-defense industry. Among the sponsors are such international luminaries as Hachette Filipacchi MÈdias, Airbus and Lockheed Martin Corp. FACC President Gregory Bradford said that while the tournament had moved around to different clubs in the past, members enjoyed Mount Vernon enough last year to make a return visit in 2002. He added that the tournamentís growing attendance is reflective of whatís happening across the ocean. ìGolf is becoming more popular in France and here,î Bradford said. ìBetween 20 and 25 percent of our players are French or work for French companies.î Potomac Is Out of Bounds For diplomats willing to sacrifice quality of course for proximity (and views), there are two Washington, D.C., courses that are legends among Capitol Hill and administration staffers. Perhaps the most famous (and infamous) is East Potomac Golf Course and Driving Range, better known simply as Hains Point. The municipal-run course has three big things going for it. Located just a 3-iron across from the Washington Marina, it is no more than a 10-minute drive from Massachusetts Avenue. Second, it is cheap. You can play 18 and still have enough left over for a beer back at the unpretentious clubhouse. Third, just look at the views. Situated on the Potomac, you may turn to your next shot and face the Washington Monument or see planes taking off from Reagan National Airport. On the downside, the course sometimes plays as if the deranged greenskeeper played by Bill Murray in ìCaddyshackî has run amok. Unless it has been dry for several days, expect sand traps to become temporary water hazards, as the drainage system seems as dodgy as Georgetown manhole covers. A course with less scenic views but perhaps more of an interesting history is Langston Golf Course and Driving Range. Listed on the National Register of Historic Places, the course traces its history back to 1939, when it was founded as a club for blacks during segregation. Located on the banks of the Anacostia River, the prime advantages of the course are its location, just five minutes from the Capitol, and its low cost (roughly the same as Hains Point). The club was played by such legends as Lee Elder, Jim Dent and Jim Thorpe before they became the first generation of black golfers to make it onto the PGA tour. The course may be rough around the edges, but such prestigious affiliations lent momentum to a current project under way to turn Langston into a true championship course. But perhaps the most convenient course for diplomats to sneak away to is Rock Creek Park Golf Course. Located at 16th and Rittenhouse Streets in Northwest, the par-65 course is known for its hilly terrain, odd par designations and cheap cost. Foreign Flavors Although most area public courses have neither frequent interaction with the diplomatic crowd, nor a convenient Washington, D.C., address, some at least have strong foreign influences. Raspberry Falls Golf and Hunt Club in Leesburg, Va.ódesigned by South African legend Gary Playerówas recently ranked number seven in Virginia by industry standard Golf Digest. The club, built on an 18th-century plantation, is a mix of interesting elements, from the golf courseís Scottish-style bunkers to the clubhouseís Southern mansion-style design. Another unique aspect of the club is that it hosts fox hunts in the fall and winter months, which actually wind through the course itself as golfers do their own hunting for their Titleists. A far different experience can be had at the swanky Lansdowne Resort, also in Leesburg. Built on the banks of the Potomac River in Virginia hunt country, the resort is located a mere eight miles from Dulles Airport. The resortís current course, designed by Robert Trent Jones Jr., is presided over by a looming 305-room hotel and resort on more than 200 acres of wooded grounds. And although Lansdowne seems to focus more on its overall amenitiesówhich range from spa services to high-tech conference facilitiesógolfers in particular will soon have something extra to smile about. The planned addition of a new, Greg Norman-designed course was recently announced, with the Australian champ coming to spread the news himself. An Aussie-French-Korean-Swede four-ball anyone? Mark Hilpert is a freelance writer in Washington, D.C.