Italian Scallion Downtown Restaurant Spezie Spices Up Italian Dishes With Originality by Rachel Hunt and Stephen Qualiana Itís not surprising that restaurateur Enzo Livia decided to open a downtown restaurant after the enormous success of his Rockville, Md., establishment Il Pizzico. Itís just surprising that it didnít happen sooner. For years loyal diners have made the trip out to Rockville Pike to enjoy his interpretation of classic Italian dishes. Although he has expanded twice to meet the demand, diners often have to wait in sometimes very long lines to get in. With this new location, Livia should be able to expand his audience to downtown diners. Spezie, located in the heart of downtown Washington, is not a second Il Pizzico. It has a distinct character of its own, more formal and refined. The interior is an exercise in understated elegance. The walls and the banquet coverings are colored in subtle earth tones. Simple furnishings, stark marble flooring and muted lighting meld effectively to create a soothing atmosphere that is equally welcome at both lunch and dinner. The lighting is particularly intriguing. Large opaque rectangular panels of pressed herbs a nd spices are backlit from regularly spaced recessed areas along the wall creating a warm and gentle glow that pervades the atmosphere of the restaurant. The restaurantís design theme echoes its name, which translates into "spices." From the light fixtures to the menu design, you get the hint that flavor is what this restaurant is about. There is little in the dÈcor to detract from the serious business at handóthe foodóand Spezie offers a meal that requires close attention. Spezieís menu was quite varied, offering a number of appetizers, pastas, and fish and meat entrees. What quickly became clear as you sampled the dishes was Liviaís ability to use understatement to create dramatic effect. As he does with his physical space, so he does with his food. The appetizer gamberoni al pompelmo ($7) married large whole shrimp, chunks of deep red ruby grapefruit, and grilled Belgian endive. These three simple ingredients, unlikely in their combination, came together subtly but brilliantly. In a more traditional vein the aspargi gratinati ($6) was effective in its simplicity, relying on only three ingredientsó asparagus, proscuitto and fontina cheeseófor its impact. The bresaola con rucola e parmigiano ($7), paper thin slices of air-cured beef filet over a bed of very lightly dressed arugula and shaved parmesan, was surprisingly light for a beef dish. In addition to the appetizers, Spezie offers a number of salads that are worth a mention. Perhaps the most striking was a twist on a traditional favorite. The insalata di crescione ($5.50) was essentially a Caesar salad with watercress replacing the romaine. The much sharper taste of the greens was carefully balanced with a liberal dose of anchovy in the dressing that imparted a rich saltiness but no fishy aftertaste. Another, the insalata díarance ($6) offered a creative departure from the basic spring greens salad. Lightly dressed mesclum was combined with thin orange slices, large sliced olives and parmesan shavings to create a sweet-sour effect. Despite the cheese and olives the salad is quite light, and one that works particularly well with the fish entrees. Liviaís pasta creations are some of the things that have made Il Pizzico so popular over the years, and he has included several favorites on the Spezie menu. Two irresistible choices were the ravioli porcini e pistacchio ($13) and the mezzelune agil spinaci e ricotta di pecora ($12). The pistachio cream sauce and the cognac pink sauce served with the two stuffed pastas were both very rich, and the dishes were filling, but the portions were manageable. In the same way that Livia avoids excess in the design of his dishes, he avoids the excessive quantities that some restaurants seem compelled to provide. Specieís menu offers a number of regular meat and fish choices in addition to nightly specials. Although there were many excellent options to choose from, one of particular note was the nightly fish special when it is done in lemon and butter. On a recent evening we were delighted by a whole orata or bream ($24) expertly deboned at the table by one of the many very efficient and unobtrusive wait staff. The fish was cooked perfectly and the accompanying sauce, a very strong lemon and butter, had such a powerful lemon taste it almost caused a pucker. Among the meat choices, the roasted veal ($18) was quite nice. It was thinly sliced and served with mashed potatoes and julienne vegetables; a simple and appealing dish. Livia departed from his less-is-more approach when it came to the dessert menu. It offered an unusually large selection of very elegant treats. Our favorite was the crostata limone ($7.50), a small, rich lemon tart with a surprising layer of chocolate sandwiched between the rich pastry crust and the lemon custard filing. Despite its prime downtown location, Spezieís prices are quite reasonable, making it the kind of place you would want to put on your regular list. And if the history of Il Pizzico is any indication of things to come, that is what many people will be doing. Spezie does offer one distinct advantage over its northern counterpart, which is that they take reservations. Spezie is at 1736 L St. NW, Washington, D.C. The telephone number is (202) 467-0777. Dress is business to urban elegant. All major credit cards are accepted. The kitchen is open for lunch Mon.-Fri. from 11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m. Dinner is served Mon.-Sat. from 5:30 p.m.-10 p.m. Rachel Hunt and Stephen Qualiana are the restaurant reviewers for The Washington Diplomat.