Kitchen Conquistador Creative Taberna del Alabardero Offers Lush Spanish Cuisine by Rachel Hunt and Stephen Qualiana Moments after we entered the counter-trendy Taberna del Alabardero, we felt a tranquility settle over us as though we had walked into an air-conditioned room on a hot day, which was also the case. The Spanish high-end restaurant goes against the current grain of local decor with an interior that is soothing in Old World European charm. Within the last year, the restaurant has undergone an interior transformation. The ceilings are very high—at least 12 feet tall—with milk-glass globes on hanging chandeliers, creating a soft lighting. Urns with plants in them are scattered through the dinging area. There was nothing obviously modern about the restaurant at all. This seemed to have an effect on the mostly business conversation from the diners because the talk did not run into modern-day high decibels as we have noticed in many other popular expensive restaurants but was so low you could speak in hushed tones and be heard at your table without a single "What did you say?" What it reminded us of was the way lobbies were designed for grand hotels of the 1930s and ’40s, very plush, with floral-patterned carpet, brass-tacked leather upholstered chairs and red velvet banquettes with antimacassars. Enormous floor-to-ceiling windows offer a view of 18th Street, although we tried to imagine it was Barcelona. On the way to the restrooms is a large balcony, but looking over it gives you a view over another dining room and into the busy, large kitchen. Although Taberna del Alabardero and chef Josu Zubikaral are famous for their tapas and paellas, we pushed past that and ordered from other parts of the menu, which included a sheet of daily specials. The tuna potato soup was incredibly inviting, even for one who is not a soup fan. It has a rather strong smoked flavor from the bacon used to cook it and was creamy and rich with small chunks of grilled potatoes, which converge at the bottom, but with no evidence of the tuna. It was served "compliments of the house" as our waiter quietly explained. The terrina templada de verduras ($10), vegetable terrine, was a thick slice of loaf. with swirls of buttery truffle sauce around it that was untraditional in that it was served hot. A rich egg concoction similar to custard held together a tasty combination of mushrooms, asparagus, red bell peppers and zucchini. The presentation was meticulous, spare and visually appetizing. This artistry obviously calls for a lot of time. The sardinas plancha con caramello de zanahorias ($12.50) or grilled sardine filets were served with several lines of sweet carrot emulsion across them, creating a picket fence effect. Sardines are a favorite in Spanish cooking, maybe because they turn out so well when grilled. The formally dressed wait staff was fast, efficient and unobtrusive—the height of professionalism. Our team managed to stay one step ahead of us by anticipating our needs, such as by refreshing a breadbasket before it was empty or refilling low water and wineglasses. The restaurant management is fond of giving complimentary samples of food and drink. The tuna potato soup was on the house as was the appetizer of marinated tuna slices, pimento strips speared together with a sprig of rosemary atop a little stack of mesaclin on a stylish triangular plate The splash of sauce seemed to be a molasses-vinegar sauce. The bolsitas txangurro ($15), or crabmeat pockets, were slightly similar to ravioli. The shells were homemade and slightly chewy and stuffed with fresh crabmeat. This unique dish was served with a pureed corn sauce that made the combination taste amazing, with clean, strong flavors. The presentation was beautiful on the entrees as well. The lomitos bacalao ($27) was a dish of codfish that came with a serving of rice in the center with three pieces of cod arranged around it so that it looked like a propeller. Each piece of fish was topped with a different sauce, which made the dis h a bit fun, sort of like a sampler because each sauce gave the cod a different character. The white sauce was made with parsley, garlic and olive oil and was rich, slightly salty. The red sauce was made with pureed red bell peppers and had a slightly smoky flavor. The black sauce was made with squid ink. In Spanish fashion, the kitchen was not shy with olive oil or salt, but the chefs do not overdo it, and all the flavors fit well with each other. The solomillo de cerdo al estilo mozarabe ($27) was roasted pork tenderloin with pinenuts and raisins and was accompanied by an ultrathin crepe that was filled an autumnal concoction of apples and orange peel that seemed to be cooked long and slow to brink out the fruit juices. The pork tenderloin was strongly flavorful, tender and precisely cooked. Setas a la parrilla ($7.50), a side dish of mushrooms could be an entree itself it has so much personality. The dish consisted of several varieties of mushrooms that were masterfully grilled—simple but excellent, like the potato side dish, patatas panadera ($5). The menu described them as baked potatoes, but they were more like scalloped potatoes, cooked and seared brown on the outside in a creamy sauce with onions. Dish after dish, we kept wondering how the kitchen staff could keep up the level of skill and creativity, but they seemed to churn them out just fine to our amazement and approval. All desserts were $9. Crema Catalana or caramelized Catalonian cream was a deluxe version of crème brulee with a seared sugar crust. El plato de los tres canutillos was three little pastry tubes filled with chocolate, vanilla and strawberry cream served with a small scoop of homemade banana ice cream. The manzana caramelizada con helado de cabrales was worthy of note. In the restaurant business, the area that has the fewwest innovations is dessert. Desserts often follow tradition closely. But this kitchen has created one that is unique. Blue cheese ice cream with applesauce. It’s a sweet dish that tastes incredible. But it’s hard to imagine before tasting it how this would be so remarkably good. Another of the on-the-house favors we received were—in keeping with Old World tradition after an excellent meal—two glasses of digestive wine: one white and one red, both delicious. It was at the moment that we clinked glasses we had to note we were in an unusual state for this city: thoroughly satisfied and relaxed. Taberna del Alabardero is at 1776 I St., NW (entrance on 18th St., NW), Washington, D.C. The telephone number is (202) 429-2200. Dress is full business or elegant. All major credit cards are accepted. Lunch is served Monday to Friday from 11:30 p.m. to 2:30. Dinner is served Monday to Saturday from 5:30 to 10:30 p.m. Rachel Hunt and Stephen are the restaurant reviewers for The Washington Diplomat.