June 2001












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Making Diplomacy Appetizing
Norwegian Chef Trond Moi Wants World to Discover His Modern Cuisine

by Nickolas Theros

Norwayís ambassador to the United States, Knut Vollebaek, is new in town. But the seasoned diplomat and former foreign minister has learned one thing about the foreign service that is true anywhere in the world: The quickest way to a diplomatís heart is through his stomach.

On May 17, Ambassador Vollebaek hosted about 400 guests at his residence in honor of Norwayís national and constitution day. The commemoration was also a celebration of Norwayís second largest export after oil: seafood. Words can only belie the true sumptuousness of the seafood spread that greeted the revelers. Meticulously presentedóin what can only be described as a more than 25-foot-long edible sculptureó was a medley of maritime delectables created personally by one of Norwayís premier chefs, Trond Moi.

Moi was in the ambassadorís kitchen the day before the event. He had flown over from Norway the evening before with a freezer-size cooler of handpicked fresh fish and seafood from various regions of the country. He was slaving over scallops from the icy waters of northern Norway, cutting them into slivers and placing into a bowl full of lime-g reen marinade, consisting of virgin olive oil, lemon and some cumin.

"This is Norwegian-style ceviche," he said. The uncooked scallops were tangy, yet balanced in taste by the marinade, and had a firm consistency.

Moi described the menu he was preparing for the celebration as an example of "modern Norwegian cuisine." "The only really traditional item on the menu is the gravlax," he said. Good enough. The hand-cured Norwegian salmon was exquisite and highly palatable.

For Moi, Norwegian gastronomy is young, and still a work-in-progress. He noted that, traditionlly, the cold weather of Norway inhibited the development of a haute cuisine and that most meats and particularly seafood had to be preserved to last the cold winters.

Today Moi wants the world to discover the new culinary dimensions he is helping to develop in his beloved country.

"I want [the guests] to taste the new and modern style for preparing seafood and shellfish in Norway," he said. "What are traditional are the raw materials. Norway has some of the best seafood in the world."

In his native Oslo, Moi is considered something of a celebrity. He began cooking at the age of 15óhe is now 31óand attended the Culinary Institute of Norway. After plying his trade in some of Osloís best hotels, he partnered with a wine taster named B¯lgen and opened the first of five popular restaurants called B¯lgen & Moi (with plans to open a sixth in New York). He is also the author of several books on Norwegian cuisine, and the host of a TV cooking show on one of Norwayís most popular television stations.

A look at the menu that Moi was preparing clearly showed his plans to shake up the perception that Norwegian food was limited to cured herring and eight ways of boiling cod. Instead, he served delicious sautÈed Saithe (indigenous Norwegian fish) cakes with red onions and leeks, Norwegian caviar toast, terrine of Norwegian cod and king crab, and marinated Norwegian lobster tails with fresh basil.

Asked if he was happy to be in Washington for the national day celebrations, he replied, "I am very excited to be here.Ö I feel like Norwayís culinary ambassador." He quickly turned to make sure Ambassador Vollebaek was not in earshot.

Ambassador or not, Moi is serious about promoting Norwayís seafood to the world. After all, when it comes to changing perceptions about Norwegian food, his nation would be hard-pressed to find a better representative.

Nickolas Theros is the assistant editor of The Washington Diplomat.


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