A Way With Words Greenwood Restaurant Explores Urban Favorites With Traditional Flair by Rachel Hunt and Stephen Qualiana As we were seated at the new location for Greenwood, we noted the maitre dí left menus tucked in books at the table. That should tell you something about this literate crowd that the restaurant caters to, which is a few doors down from Politics & Prose. The menu was in black and white and computer printed with no capitalization. And the food was fun and clever like an ee cummings poem. The kitchen had a way with food the way a writer has a way with words. The setting was playful and pleasant, with deep orange-red walls and industrial ceiling. A plain wooden framework divided the long space into rooms, separated by off-white sheer curtains, which can be drawn, hanging from the framework. The curtains created a comfortable sense of privacy you often donít get in local popular restaurants. Three candles on each tables and glass-blown sconce lights aga inst the walls created a warm atmosphere. The lack of background music added to the congeniality and conversation in the place. It seemed that the owner and managers put a lot of thought and effort into everything down to the last detail for the best effect, in not only the dÈcor but in the food. The accompanying dishes were not just afterthoughts, but at the same level as the main item. A long, handmade communal table dominates the center of the restaurant, in what is usually know as European-style seating. This is the second one weíve seen in two months and were wondering why restaurant owners want to get their patrons to get to know each other. Weíve often noticed how difficult it is to meet Washingtonians, who often have a strong sense of privacyómaybe a communal table will be an icebreaker. The food could be described as nouvelle urban, a touch pricey, but worth it. No weird ingredients or spices, but adventurous with a traditional flair. Fish such as sea bass and tuna were on the menu, along with steak and lamb. The most exotic dish was a crispy rabbit with polenta. Weíre always willing to try an unusual squid dish, especially if itís prepared with fresh squid. This was a good one: It was not like chewing on a rubber spatula. The white body meat was grilled, scored and rolled into cylinders, almost as if they were cold-cuts at a picnic. This was tender yet chewy in the way squid is and was served with fried lemon and green olives. The darker-tasting tentacles were separated from the white meat. Although presentation was a concern, it was more utilitarian than fancy, but what should be pointed out is that the big white plates are as close as youíll ever see to being full in this kind of restaurant. The steamed mussels were tender, flavorful and smooth. They retained the flavor of the rosemary and red wine they were steamed in. This juice was so good that after the mussels were gone we were inconspicuously dipping bread in it. The wood-grilled escarole ($8) was lightly cooked but had a smoky flavor, not overpowering but a bit to strong, and came with roasted hazelnuts The wait staff was prompt, efficient, politeóand patient. They were helpful with recommendations that turned out be worthy advice. The manager came around twice to see if everything was all right. For the entrees, the grilled Australian rack of lamb ($28) was surprisingly tenderóand even more surprisinglyónot gamy. The texture was more like tenderloin than lamb, which had a crispy exterior and was served with a cauliflower au gratin and sweet potato chips. We were impressed with the smoked lobster ($28) in sight and taste at the restaurant but were surprised to find it had changed in flavor stored overnight in the refrigerator and then reheated in an oven. The whole grilled lobster was splint lengthwise, covered with mashed potatoes and a mushroom ragout. The tuna ìfilet mignonî($22) was served seared and very rare, tossed in fresh water chestnuts and shredded fennel, and accompanied with risotto. The prime sirloin ($35) was one of the best steaks weíve ever had. It was a huge portion, nearly two-inches thick. The cut seemed to be marinated, then masterfully cooked with the outside seared brown and the juicy inside a deep rose, with the meat tender and rich. It came with the nicely prepared smoked beet greens. Finally, we were struck by Happiness, a sample plate with each of the dayís dessertsóan idea that weíd like to see other restaurants pick up. The four desserts were chocolate espresso barówhich was closer to fudge than mousse, a competent lemon meringue tart, a very dark and strong crËme brulee and something called tweedlesósugar crisp shells topped with strawberries. Although we hated to see Greenwoodís former occupant, the Indian restaurant Nepal, leave the place, we are happy that the new tenant is the literate type. Greenwood is at 5031 Connecticut Ave. NW, Washington, D.C. The telephone number is (202) 364-4444. The kitchen is open from 5:30 to 10 p.m. from Tuesday to Thursday and Sunday. It is open from 5:30 to 11 p.m. on Friday and Saturday. Dress is city casual. All major credit cards are accepted. Rachel Hunt and Stephen Qualiana are the restaurant reviewers for The Washington Diplomat.