East a la Mode by Rachel Hunt and Stephen Qualiana From the moment you step into Japone, with its strikingly white interior, you know you are in for something different. A few steps down from the bustle of P Street NW, you find yourself in a room that has been transformed into an almost dreamlike space of white floors, walls and ceilings, curving white booths, and flowing white drapes, hung strategically in doorways. The white was relieved with occasional touches of color in well-placed fountains, artwork, an enormous fish tank, and an interesting wall fireplace that generated considerable heat for its small size. Despite its small and intimate space, Japone gives a sense of being in a Greek temple. Japone Restaurant is the newest venture of owner-chef Kenji Akiho and his wife Mayumi Yazawa. Akiho is no newcomer to the restaurant scene, having been the first chef to introduce the French-Japanese fusion concept in dining to Washington more than 10 years ago in his more casual sushi restaurant, CafÈ Japone, located above Japone. With this new establishment Akiho and his three-star chefs intend to raise the fusion concept to the level of fine dining, and they have all the right ingredients for success. One dining concept not often found in Washington restaurants is found in the main dining room, which was dominated by a very large, strikingly lit white marble communal table, at which parties are seated family style, or which can be reserved for large parties. Japoneís menu was a well-balanced mix of starters and entrees that encompasses the frankly familiar to the unquestionably exotic. In keeping with the Japanese side of the equation, Japone offers fuguóbetter known as pufferfishósashimi ($3.50 per piece) and shiri ($30). This unusual delicacy, exported directly from Japan, was described as the culinary version of Russian roulette because unless prepared properly, consumption can prove fatal. The skin, ovaries, muscles and liver may contain a poison similar to curare and only through expert treatment by licensed chefs is it safe. Akiho and two of Japoneís chefs are licensed fugu chefs. Another specialty of Japanese origin will appeal to the serious meat eaters. Japone offers Kobe beef steak served with a wafu sauce ($75 for a 7.5-ounce cut). Kobe beef comes exclusively from the wagyu cattle breed that originated in Japan and is processed in the Kobe prefecture under very specific production standards. The meat is very highly marbled, extremely tender with an almost velvety texture, and has slightly sweet savor. Japone also imports Matsushima oysters for its sushi special (market price). These unusual oysters, from the Matsushima Bay, are flown directly from Japan. The menu offers an extensive array of appetizers, many of which are meatless, and combined make a very nice meal for vegetarian diners. The diverse offerings range from a simply prepared and perfectly executed dish of warm sautÈed wild mushrooms ($9) served on a bed of mescalin dressed with a perfect garlic soy dressing to a salad of four brightly colored fresh seaweeds ($9), whose different textures and flavors are set off with a delicious garlic sesame sauce. Both are excellent choices, as is the shrimp stuffed with spinach and wrapped in bacon ($10). For the more conservative diner there is a fresh salmon canapÈ ($9), although those with a taste for the unusual can sample a pate-like monkfish liver ($9) served in a traditional Japanese ponzu sauce with a relish of daikon, ginger and spring onions. One of the most appealing options, for those with an adventurous streak, is omakase, the chefís tasting dinner. In a five- or six-course version ($50 or $60, respectively), the meal includes the chefís best choices for the day based on the availability of fresh ingredients. Diners have the option of indicating their general preferences or leaving the choice entirely to the chefs. Given the distinctly different styles and expertise of Japoneís three master chefs, the omakase offers an opportunity to sample an unusual breadth of culinary talent at one sitting. The evening we tried it, the chefs chose to start with salmon rolls with avocado, cream cheese and raw onion wrapped in seaweed. Then we went to half a lobster thermidore served with a superb piece of marinated and broiled black cod, tenderloin filet mignon beef tips sautÈed with shitake mushrooms, stuffed shrimp wrapped with bacon, and fried soft-shell crabs in a light sesame sauce. This was truly a feast. While the portions were appetizer size, each dish was so well executed that by the end of the meal we were absolutely satisfied. And when the dessert plate arrived we still were able to enjoy an excellent selection, including a tofu custard, bland but well textured, a perfect zabaglione, and a wonderful Kaluha mousse cake that left us wanting more. If the omakase is too much food or you donít have the time (and it does take some time for all the food to arrive), there are a number of notable entrÈes. While seafood dominates the menu, there are also lamb, duck and beef, concoctions prepared with a French emphasis. Perhaps the simplest choice on the menu is the shrimp tempura ($19), several large shrimp and a sampling of vegetables. The batter was light and not at all greasy, and the dipping sauce was mild. A more flavorful dish was the scallops and shrimp served over capellini with a strong saffron cream sauce ($16). More unusual, and visually very striking, was the combination scallops, shrimp and salmon with a ginger cream sauce ($19). This ingenious dish involves wrapping salmon strips around scallops and stuffing the whole thing into split jumbo shrimp, which are served over potato au gratin with a moderately rich cream sauce subtly flavored with the ginger, proving that the chefs are dexterous as well as being masters of flavor. The dessert menu offers a few regular choices as well as nightly specials. The apple crisp with ice cream ($5) was served warm and was a very rich version of this traditional favorite. The sorbet choice we tried, a green mango, was only slightly sweet, and had a hint of tamarind and a gritty texture. It worked well after a heavy meal, and would be perfect between courses. Both French and Japanese cuisine rely on very fresh ingredients as the cornerstone. Japone in keeping with both traditions pays very careful attention to the quality of its ingredients, and so not all of the choices are always available, as many are shipped directly from Japan. You might want to call ahead to confirm that fugu, or the oysters are in that day. But even without these, there is so much on the menu to choose, and owner Akiho and his chefs are so accommodating, that you are sure to find something to please. Japone Restaurant is at 21 P St. NW, Washington, D.C. The telephone number is (202) 223-2573. The kitchen is open from 5:30 p.m. to 11:30 from Tuesday to Sunday. Dress is city casual. All major credit cards are accepted. Rachel Hunt and Stephen Qualiana are the restaurant reviewers for The Washington Diplomat.